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Saturday, November 7, 2026

26 - 11 NOVEMBER IN MALTA

       Good Morning.  I arrived in Malta after leaving Amsterdam yesterday morning.  My landlord drove me at 7:30 am.  He works at the airport so it was a win-win.




         I was getting bored with Mexico.  15 years in Oaxaca...I've seen plenty of wedding parades and celebrations. Couldn't take another Day of the Dead.  Love the weather and the people and the food...but was not having fun and no one to share.  Had to take a break.

      Malta is an alternative place to live.  So far...one night...it appears very touristy but mostly Brits. Met a Texan Holdem poker player from Holland in the wait area who comes to Malta frequently for tournements and to play golf.  He travels the world playing both. Phoenix, Vegas, Paris, etc.  We talked for quite a while until he started coughing and was very congested.  I moved away.  Got a cold on the flight to Holland and suffered for 2 weeks and didn't want to spend my time in Malta doing the same. We had a nice flight...I upgraded for $75 to first class...had leg room and a nice dinner I really enjoyed.  Malta special with baby lamb chops, 3 different cheeses with hummus, and a Rumbaba...all good.

    It was so nice and warm getting off the plane. Sunshine, and in the 70's...Yeah! I went out for dinner and couldn't find a restaurant serving non fried fish!  One had Salmon, of course.  Finally after 6 restaurants serving Pizza and Pasta...I found fresh Tuna.  It was good but the rest of the meal...eh. 



Not sure if these are the Alps, Dolomites, or best guess Pyrennes.


I will order this in Malta.






Haven't seen one of these since I opened my Pay Phone business which flopped big time when cells phones came out.




                          
     Sea at the end of this Peninsula. Claustrophobic Streets are narrow and have to walk in the one car lane or sidewalk if you can...so be careful. Lots of up and down hills.



The fresh Tuna Steak was great but the rest was eh!

                                          FAST FOOD?



   
In the evening it cooled so I turned on the Heat/AC but only AC.  I noticed a small electric heater that helped. I tucked into a warm bed but in the middle of the night, I heard a noise.  Someone was entering my apartment. I yelled and they quickly left and I ran half naked into the hall. Neighbors door was open with  music coming out of the apartment.   Lucky Star, the company,  has a standard combination for the front door, so anyone that has stayed here before can come in.   The apartment doors do not lock when you close the door.  I found that out so will use my key and lock it when going in or out.
     The electric is British so 220v and adapter required.  Left it in Oaxaca.  They gave me one and it worked to charge my computer but not my phone or hearing aides. Now have a DEAD phone.   So many photos to take and my phone died.
      I can drink the tap water but they use a desalinazation plant and it's not the best tasting water so I bought bottled. Got to shower and get moving...lots to do first day to get phone charged, report neighbor, buy more water and wine, get breakfast. 
  I did all that and stopped for Salmon Benedict.  I returned but my password didn't work so I knocked but no answer. I couldn't check the deadphone in case they tried to notify me, so I went around the corner to closest bar and they charged it while I sat with a Scottish couple that came in June but too hot so they returned now and were going back home tomorrow. 

                  My Salmon was like the one one the menu.
I returned as soon as the phone was charged.  No messages and when I arrived the front door was open so I went to the apartment and emailed them.   I waited until the phone was completely charged and left to eat and take photos!



                             Catching the Rays



                                       Watching the Sunset


















 A Bay separates 2 Peninsulas: Valletta & Sliemia. A Ferry takes you back and forth for a dollar or 2. Other ferries take you to surrounding Islands.







Time for dinner. Special: Appetizer and Entree with a glass of wine. $19.95, with a small glass of plain water (gave me a small bottle for $3.50!).  The App was Malta dips...one refried beans, the other a pleasant tasting dip made from dried tomatoes that was very good. 2 slices of white toast to dip with.
Chicken Curry entree was good.

Poorly arranged "fresh seafood". Not very good merchandising



Manager respondsible for Seafood display trying to help a customer crack open the Lobster they ordered. I was laughing. It took him almost 10 minutes and he dropped the cracker and had to fetch another. I don't think he ever ate a lobster. He certainly did not know how to crack it open.



                               View from my window.
Today, I will shop and plan a tourist trip to one of the Islands and try to get some interesting photos.  I feel like a tourist with photos of Monuments, Statues, buildings, crowded streets, landscapes, boats, and the sea. I am bored editing all these with hope that some might turn out good. 
      I returned to the same restaurant for breakfast but no fake Hollandaise Benedict. Good Irish Breakfast.


Line to see St. John's Church. I got the app, bought ticket and walked around the crowd and right in? They're in line just to pay as you go and have to wait until people leave to avoid crowding...ticket holder's get priorty.


I wanted to see the Carvaggio painting of The Beheading of John the Baptist.  The church, St. John's is supposed to be beautiful. I have my ticket good for a week.




                                Yeah...I'm getting bored.


                       I had a horse when we owned a farm!  



Get your cameras out!


                  Do we have to sit in the saddle all day?

                    
                           Queen Victoria   
                

I returned to change to something warmer then went out for an evening dinner of Rabbit and Rigatoni with a salad at a Maltese Restaurant.








     
Credit cards everywhere...seldom cash allowed. Even on the bus for a $1 fare or a $2.50 Ice cream cone. NO CASH.



The pulled Rabbit meat in pasta was good. Snail Stew and Rabbit Liver did not appeal to me. I do love fresh snails with garlic butter. Looks like 1.43 lb but maybe Kilo? It is large.


Warm water lobster..no claws but would have been good if I had someone to share with?

I had breakfast at the Manoel Hotel this morning. Buffet for $15 that was offered as part of staying at this apartment. It was OK.  Yogurt and all the breakfast stuff, including Scrambled Eggs and Bacon or Ham and Cheese Omelet. 




I returned to my apartment and tried to find where I get a boat to Goza.  Then left to take photos on the way.



























               The Elevator to the boat launch.



     The boat terminal was accessable from an elevator, then a short 5 minute walk. I took the Fast boat, 45 minutes, to Goza Island to visit Victoria, the capital of Goza.
   Goza has the oldest free standing structures in the world, the largest megalith to be found at Ggantija Temples weighs 50 tonnes and its walls reach a height of around seven meters and dates over 5000 years!   
      I waited 10 minutes and the boat arrived. Could not get on deck and couldn't see to well out the windows for photos...so I took a 45 minute nap and we were there.





               I found a nice place for lunch in Victoria








 It was late when I had lunch in Victoria. A sandwich that was awesome.  Some kind of Tuna based mix of butter beans, corn, black olives, etc. I will try and get the recipe for me in Oaxaca to make. I have half with me to put in the refrigerator when I get back.  I still had to bus back to the boat, get ticketed to catch the fast boat.
         I met a Maltese man while waiting for our boat. Very nice. He spoke excellent english and lives in Julian, just outside of Valletta. When we got off the boat in Valletta I said goodbye and he offered to give me a ride. He asked before where I was staying. He said it was on the way and his wife was picking him up.  I declined and I regetted it.
        It was chilly and dark, so I walked fast and was back in 15 minutes to dress warm and head out for a drink.  
    I found a place and ordered 2 for 1, Rum and Coke. The waiter was the owner and danced to electronic beat music while weaving in between tables and approaching customers.  He was very personable but the drink had little Rum and caffeine was not good at 6:30pm, so I left one of them and went for another place.
      I went to an Irish Pub and ordered a Pint, then changed it for a Half Pint with a shot of Irish Whisky. The bartender thought I was ordering for 2 so poured a Pint, a Half Pint and a Whiskey.  I told him, he misunderstood but had already charged me on my debit card, so I said...just give me the Half Pint and add some more Whiskey. He filled the glass with whiskey, then after I was settled outside, he brought out the Pint and said he had already poured it so he gave it to me.                  We talked a while. He was from Serbia and been in Malta 2 wonderful years and loved it. He might return to Serbia where the "Left" young voters are hopefully going to kick out the "Right" wing President that has been running a corrupt government for years.
      The owner's girlfriend, Angela came out and introduced herself. She was from Macedonia and arrived in Malta 4 years ago and also loved it.  We talked about my experience with the Gypsies while visiting Macedonia.  She had her own similar story. She had been to the USA but on a cruise ship out of LA.
        I over did it and was drunk so went home and right to sleep.  That is twice this year I've done that! 


       I love Irish Pubs.  Always happy friendly people.


Notice the tip "jar".  I don't think Malta heard about cigarettes being bad for you. Lots of smokers here. I still find the best air quality I've experienced in years. Biggest offender..cars, buses.



The bartender told me that Oliver Reed the famed British actor, whom I liked, died the day after he drank at the Pub...what he drank that night is on his T-Shirt.



                     Don't see Cigarette Machines in the US or Holland except in Malta!


 
Today I ate at the Manoel Hotel again but wasn't as nice as yesterday.  I've been editing photos and time to go have lunch.
       Charles and Ron's was a real surprise restaurant I discovered. I had a great protein salad with Humus, quinona, fresh peppers, eggplant, feta, olives, tomatoes and more. My Matcha latta was so good.  I wanted to order another meal but was full. I am going there tomorrow. 






Excellent!!


Also excellent.  Never had a coffee where the Heart Flower stayed until the last drop.  Must be a sign! 

      Watching the Cable network in my room, I discovered the Pope has a Worldwide Prayer Network that you can say prayers with the Pope everyday when he does! He is the first Pope to Vote in an election, also! I saw him posted on a church.

 
                           Thank you Google Translate.

       It rained today.  I returned to Charles and Ron for breakfast thinking it would be as good as my dinner.  It was not as good but I sure liked the Hot Chocolate.  I returned that evening for a Pasta dish that was good but not real special.


     This Grand Square was empty when I left early for light breakfast at Charles and Ron.  I ordered with all kinds of expectations.  Not.


                           Energy Ball, good but too much sugar.

Poached eggs were not soft, bacon not crisp or hot, sausages were warmed over precooked, the "Malta" cheese reminded me of Oaxacan which I don't care for, the bread was sourdough...not.  The Avocado and tomatoes were good as was the excellent Hot Chocolate.





          The speaker was a recorded Mass? Or sermon. No Priest




    
Rain Rain...go away...come again some other day..Halloween

          
      Yes...Charles and Ron again...you ask WHY? The Staff was extremely professional and apologetic. 


Pasta with Smoked Salmon...OK.

Good Morning Sunshine!




                       

I opened my Maltese Quiche while sipping my coffee and 2 Pigeons from the Awning above, swooped down and ripped out a couple mouthfulls before I knew it. I pushed them away and they ignored me and pushed back!





If it was good enough for them, I ate it.  Not bad but not a Quiche which is what they called it. I wandered to the bus station and purchased a 7 day pass to travel around when the weather got better.  Took photos on the way and ended up back at Charles and Ron for a very good dinner...like I had the first time.  He gave me a free Gin and Tonic for all my troubles.

                          





Bus Station was Huge...3 Terminals with like 10 buses at each that take you anywhere in the country.  It is a small Island.




Street Entertainers are different here than anywhere I have traveled.








   
My smaller but excellent dinner!
               
 
   
 I watch the weather before I leave and had my umbrella.  Made it home with only stepping in one puddle that soaked my shoe and foot.

This morning I ate at home.  Fresh Blueberries, Tangerine, banana, apple , Greek Yogurt and Museli.  Then to the Art Museum.  








17th century furniture.  How they inlaid such intricate patterns in the wood amazes me.


Public buildings built in 1500's are difficult to adapt to 21st century...see the glass staircase and this room suspended above a room


This Venus of Malta carved from rock in 3000 BC is distorted with colors because it's projected on a screen.  I hope to see the real deal before I leave Malta.





Hard to photo and visualize glass stairs.  I had to climb up 3 flights of stairs to go from ground floor to the first floor.


Two of these...one was outdoors and this one...both identical.



                            Chair covered in Candle Wax?





    Stopped for this Bagel with Avocado, Beets and Salmon...very good. Made dinner at apartment: Can of Kidney beans, Tomatoes, Tuna, with Instant Ramen Noodles. It worked.

Breakfast at apartment: Greek Yogurt, Fruit and Museli.           

 

I boarded the bus for Mdina, 
Ancient village with about 200 inhabitants about an hour bus ride. It remains a walled in Medievil City...rebuilt a bit after an earthquake. Lots of Catholic Churchs, Monestary, Nunnery, Museums and restaurants now.   It was around 11:30 am when the bus stopped and a lot of people got off... I asked the couple next to me if they were getting off. Oh, no, not yet.  I asked when we boarded if they were going to Mdina and they said yes.  So I stayed and the bus made a few other stops until we were the only people. I think when I asked if we were going to Mdina, they meant the bus not them. He said something to me when the bus unloaded and I couldn't understand his whisper so he repeated it and I still told him I didn't understand so he repeated it a 3rd time and I still didn't understand but nodded like I did.  Big mistake. I need a Cochlear implant!
       What he was explaining was they were hiking the cliffs of Dingle not going to Mdina but I didn't hear that, so they got off and I stayed thinking I would return to Valletta, our starting point and then take the next bus to Mdina. 
     The driver told me he wasn't going to Valletta and I should get off the next stop and get bus 302 to Valletta.  I did and I sat next to a lady and asked her if she lived around there. She did so I explained my situation and she said...don't worry, in one more stop we will be in Mdina. Have a nice day, be sure to see the catacombs and make sure the return bus says Valletta.  I got out and toured the village. Whew! Lucky me.

         
           View, overlooking the Mdina wall, of a village in the distance.


     Nice home of one of the 200 residents of the Mdina.












One of many alters in one of many churches...museums of religious art....nunnery, etc.  I am not a big fan of religions and it seems this City was controlled and ran by the church.  At least toward the end of its decline.







                                              A Museum




...of religious Art.







Those things that look like "Vapes" are Ear and Nose Pic Holders from 17th century France. No Q-Tips.










This is a dorm for Nuns at the nunnery where they lived.   Oh there's one now!





...the nuns sewed, ironed, made material, did the wash and sang in the church choir.



...they also made herbal remedies, extracts and potions

                                                  
                                             ...and wine.


They had their very own Chapel




...mostly did the laundry.






This lady is enjoying her Champagne...yes real restaurant and lady.



Lots of Claustrophobic narrow streets...but nice day!










                         Catholics don't call them TOILETS.










Late Lunch was a really good Lentil soup and Maltese Tuna Ftilre?




Very good...but getting late and I wanted to see the Catacombs but they were outside of Mdina in a suburb named Rabat.  Before leaving I notice Dungeons.  Had to see how the church kept order.





I thought so!  Finally got to the Catacombs which were also used in WWII when Malta, a British "colony" by that time, was bombed by the Germans.



Now this is Claustrophobic!  Can not imagine listening to bombs 
in what could be your grave...well a lot were buried in the Catacombs but I think there remain were given proper burial. 

It was around 4:30 when I saw the crowd waiting for the bus.  I asked if it went to Valletta...yes, yes...so I was the LAST person to board and many got left behind. I had to enter the back of the bus because the front had no room.  Standing room only.  After about 20 minutes a man sitting behind me asked if I wanted to sit down.  I politely refused.
      Another 20 minutes when by and every stop some got off but others got on in the back. When the door opened it squished me against the others. Finally I turned to the man and said YES. He stood and I sat next to his wife.  They were on vacation from Munich Germany. 
       An hour later more people were getting off than on so he found a seat and another 1/2 hr later we swapped seats.  Another half hour later he and his wife got off at their hotel in a suburb of Valletta. 
             The bus did not go to Valletta and I had to get off and either take a ferry across the bay or another bus. The driver said number 14 was right behind him and that was going to Valletta.  I got off and got on 14, which was standing room only and 1/2 later at 7pm I arrived in Valletta. Took 40 minutes to get to Mdina and 2 hours of stop and go to get home...I should have looked for the sign Valletta like the woman told me. 
     Slept really well.

Ate the last of my Greek Yogurt and fruit then off to the Archaeological Museum. The Neolithic period, when hunter, gatherers settled down, was when Goza and Malta Islands were settled. Temples and villages of stone have been uncovered and the oldest existing structures on earth. Older then the pyramids. 
                Lady napping or possibly dead. Carved from stone with no metal.


           
  Pots for cooking and huge pots that used different clays to make a pattern.


This is how they think the blocks of stone were moved into place. 

     Malta 1st then Egypt...then Stonehedge..500 or more years apart. Other ages alternated on the list opposite of this that I didn't photo.

      
                   These were from the Neolithic Stone Age.



                                           Tiny Heads
















                 Stone Casket was sealed with liquid Lead 


     I visited the NY Metropolitan Museum of Art to see an Egyption Exhibit.  A lot of similar treasures and artifacts were there that impressed me.  
    Seeing these in this very small Country traveling though the hillsides where these people lived and created these over 5000 years ago, had a much more profound effect on me then seeing similar artifacts in downtown Manhattan. Maybe I appreciate the experience more now that I am 81 years old then I did when I was 51. Age also changes your viewpoint.
I stopped at restaurant named "Tribe" for a nice Matcha Mango Latte and a lovely Salad Bowl with everything deliously healthy in it.





Where are all the trees and flowers gone ?  Long time passing.
 
I went right to St. John's Cathedral. Built in 1573 and named after the Knight's of St John, organized in the 11th Century and composed of Men from wealthy families all over Europe that fought religious wars. They arrived in Malta before 1565 when the Siege of Malta took place.  The Ottomans surrounded the Island but the Knights held them off until the Spanish ships came and chased them away. The Knights then built the city of Valletta and the Cathedral of St John. 
     I walked right in, thinking oh, another church...but was really impressed.  This ranks up there with the best of them. The key art attraction is the painting of The Beheading of St John the Baptist by Caravaggio in 1608.














These Marble Slabs are Tombstones of the Knights and each tell something about him and or his conquests. They cover the entire floor of the Cathedral.



This is the seating.  It is larger than Oaxaca's but still small compared to the Cathedral in Cologne Germany or others.


Construction and repairs are on going in more of the Side Alters.



                     Entrance to the Caravaggio Painting



             The Beheading of John the Baptist from a distance.


                   The Best I could get with my Phone.













             
                                The Basement Crypts







I went to the Art Museum Restaurant called MUZE for dinner.


                                  Beet Rizzoto with Feta


 

 Fresh Ocean White Fish Meagre, pan seared with Citrus Crust



                          
            Rigotta and Cream Cheese with Cinnamon Chips


      Had a nice Expresso to finish off a wonderful Meal


                                   
                            Malta's Center for Creativity




Today I returned to Manoel Hotel for their Breakfast Buffet...scrambled eggs, crisp bacon, ham, lots of Yogurt, nuts, fruit, coffee and juice.  Afterwards I visited the Malta Center for Creativity but a convention of sorts caused me to leave.





I stopped in this unique Malta coffee shop for a Flat White and waited for 10 minutes while these two carried on a conversation. In my haste I decided to forget it...and walked right into the sliding glass door that I thought was open and almost broke it.  Sure got everyones attention.

This is my last day in Malta...I depart tomorrow morning for Amsterdam, then Tuesday for Oaxaca.  I will send this post out and the next will be from Oaxaca at the end of November. Thank you all!  Amigo david