Monday, March 26, 2018

2018 END OF MARCH...

       I sent a Birthday card out today at the Post Office.  Put it in the Exterior Box for USA.



Before Spain invaded the Aztec, Mayan, and Inca Civilization Runners could deliver a message from the North to the Southern tip of America faster than a letter takes to get there today....like the Pony Express across the top of the Sierra Madre Mountain range.
      
    Today I stayed in and am working on cleaning my stove and recleaning the wine soaked camisa I so like.  It was 4-5 pm and I just had a small piece of waffle but instead of wanting to nest I wanted to attend a "Happy Hour" with food like in Snottsdale at a bar that I can meet people.  I took the bus to Constitucion and was going to Biznaga in hope some lingering snowbird or resident would be there. I decided to branch out and explore new venues so turned down Cinco de Mayo and remembered the good food I had at Distiliro and noted a sandwich board promoting a "Happy Hour" ...rare to see in Oaxaca and especially with a real bar...all 8 seats but real...with seating for another 8 next to it...full!  I found the last seat on the end and ordered the tripe menudo for $3 with a Chilcano Cocktail of Mescal, lime, Lillet, and something that made it great...for $3 then just relaxed and noted the patrons were retired married couples and read my New Yorker.  The Menudo arrived...WOW.  The flavor reminded me of the best Pozole I ever had but with Tripe...honeycombed pig's intestines that was so tender, flavorful and filling...I toyed with the thought of ordering the Guacamole made with Sweet Potato and??? 

     I was full and Happy Hour was drawing to a close so decided to try the only other cocktail offered for H H...a girlie drink with flowers on the lip that looked like a butterfly and a rosa drink with...artisanal Rum.  Now the bar cleared...HH was over and one man was finishing the last of his meals when I commented on the Mescal he was drinking.  The bar had NO Vodka and mostly featured distilled liquor from Mexico...as well as food. No Pizza here!  He was a entrepreneur from Chicago that was working his business for 3 week before moving on.  He also travels the world for his company and his work.  Maybe in his 50's or late 40's.  Did travel a bit when his dad was in the Air Force Reserve...2 brothers and a sister if I remember.  I told him my life story...all the travels and Vietnam.   
          He knew his Mescal and recommended the top shelve...I added that to my stomach.  Then a bought a bottle to take home.  850$...I've paid more and less but this was 100% and delicious.  I took the taxi home with a driver that worked in LA and spoke good English...I spoke a lot of Spanish..loose lips.  Best part of my trying to learn is to speak it all the time...so Mecal is my lubricant and Distililo is my venue for now on.
     Adelina was greeted me when I came in the Gate with Teri sitting outside enjoying the warm evening.  Adelina has been dressing up of late.  Fancy ear-rings with matching skirt, nice blouse and lipstick. I think she has a new boyfriend or is looking for one, and I only just noticed it during the move??
      David Chang has "Ugly and Delicious", a Documentary series on the food channel where he travels into Mexico and discovers Real Tacos and other Mexican cuisine.  I am now getting interested too.  Before it never sparks my appetite but now!  He travels the world to try different cuisines Bulgaria, Japan, etc...interesting.


      This is a Zapotec Salad after I ruined the presentation.  Shredded Oaxacan cheese, Pickled Nopales, Tomato, Red Onion and Chapulines.  Never would order it until I decided to try and it was great...couldn't finish it all though.
      This is a cone made from fried tortilla and filled with chopped blanched Hibiscus flowers with lime juice...served with fresh delicious Guacamole. Thank you David Chang.
   
      Man training for "Stunt Man" .  Good Samaritan Day and start of Easter.


        When Joan was leaving she gave me the best Peanut Butter I ever ate
       I had breakfast at the Bakery today...
          I met Hector today for Menudo at the place it was so good but he would not eat Menudo so I ordered it again but it was terrible.  The presentation sucked, there was no flavor or broth...all tough tripe.  I ordered the pickled vegetables that were inspiring and delicious.
The Sweet Potato Guacamole was blender Guacamole with too much lime served with tasty cold sweet potato chunks, spanish peanuts and rice crackers.

That was OK. Hector had the Fish Tacos...eh.
The Happy Hour drinks were still good!
  We stopped at Importado for Don Julio Tequila and Hector told me about Casa Mescal just around the corner as being the very best.  We finished the evening at the Casa Mescal Cantina with really good cross between Mescal and Tequila..called Centeron.

  I took home 2 bottles.

     Today was Palm Sunday.   I awoke and was doing my exercises when I kept hearing noises...like chanting in a foreign language.  I didn't have my hearing aides in and the windows were open so went out in the living room and looked out the window. Mass was being held in front of my condo!!!Mass was being said!   My landlord is trying to bring me back into the fold? I was afraid if I opened the drapes the large congregation would see me with my camera..in the middle of communion? 
5 minutes later it grew quiet and everyone was gone...but I have no idea where they went?

      I checked my email and got a notice about a folk concert at Casa Historical and it wasn't the normal entertainers.  I was already signed up for another "Chamber Concert" at the Learning Center at the same time.  I would enjoy both but probably fall asleep listening to the French Cellist so cancelled and took a taxi to the Casa, where I've been for many concerts but none this year.  Jane was collecting increased admission at the door 150 Pesos. I like Jane and she has a runs a classy B and B without the AIR. It was hot and I was hungry but the features was always Hot Dogs and Hamburgs...
now Jane had Empanada of Spinach, Taco with Taso?, what looked like Pizza and some mushroom and cheese thing.  I had the Empanada and late the Taco with a glass of wine and what my friend and pool player Allen recommended...the best Margarita around.
Allen picking his Nose
It was.  I sat in the shade with another friend from Boston area...David.  He paints with acrylics as a new hobby in retirement.  His lady friend was sitting with Ed who lost his wife last year but returned this year. The music was excellent.  as well as the crowd, though small.



I left about 6 pm and Allen was out front in his car...I tried to bum a ride but he was going the other direction so I walked home while stopping on the way for a Crucifix of Christ and 1/2 a Roasted Chicken.


      Palm Sunday families out in force.
      It was early and I was sick of Netflix so turned to Amazon and paid to see 3 Billboards in Ebbing Missouri which I thought a great movie about small town america and our ethics.  I love Woody Harrelson but he is putting on weight...it's the Marijuana...I know.  But the star was Marilyn or Margaret...who did a brilliant job in Fargo.  She was great. The movie was a little exaggerated in places but great.
I played pool today with 'Christopher Stowens who is also a Oaxacan Blogger and a really good one. He lives out in the villages and attended Palm Sunday procession that was quite impressive:   I HIGHLY RECOMMEND HIS BLOG ON PALM SUNDAY and Shannon's VIEW FROM CASITA COLIBRI



Tuesday, March 20, 2018

MAZUNTE A OAXACAN BEACH VILLAGE

         Joan arrived on Friday evening.  Saturday I took my suitcase for our trip to Mariposa to leave for our departure the following morning.  Teresa, the owner, greeted me enthusiastically , offered me coffee and invited me to visit anytime.  She used to be my landlady at my first apartment in Oaxaca.  Usi, her right hand man who has been working with her for over 7-8 years, also greeted me.  He was my best first friend in Oaxaca before he married then built a house for his parents and wife to live.  It was a nice reunion.  Joan and I left to meet two other couples she met in Chacala where she stays every winter.
      It was their first time in Oaxaca and I had recommended Biznaga for dinner.  They all had Mescalritas and I gave them some sites to see.  All were from Washington State and here for two weeks..  We had a good meal and returned home.
     The next morning I met Joan and we taxied to our collectivo departure point and was on the way to Mazunte by 11am.  We arrived after 6 1/2 hours of Sierra Madre switchbacks that caused your stomach to churn.  We stopped in San Jose de Pacifico, the home of psychedelic mushrooms for a light lunch  and coffee. 



Then we were nauseous the rest of the trip but arrived around 6 pm at our Posada on the ocean.





     It was hot.  We ate at the Sombrero , an open air restaurant near the beach, then retired to the sound of the surf which kept us company the rest of our stay.
      Breakfast at the Posada then off to explore a bit and plan our next few days. 
We decided just to sit and watch the surf, visit the Turtle sanctuary, Zipolete, and eat in different restaurants. Tonight was to be an Italian place that was closed when we arrived with no sign other than "Open"?  So we went to our 2nd choice and the same.  Both were touted to be the best restaurants in Mazunte.  We stopped into another on the main street that was OK then retired.  I spent most of that day washing wine out of my clothes.  I packed two boxes of wine, one broke and spread a liter of red wine on everything in my suitcase forcing me to throw out two shirts and a pair of undershorts.  I may throw out more when I return.  I forgot my belt so had to walk around holding up my shorts.  I will manage.
    Today I awoke to a high tide and crashing waves, nature at it's best.  We stopped for coffee at a business that the Italian man Alejandro owned. He owned the other restaurant that was closed last night. He was cooking Pizza!  I wanted to ask him why he advertised he was open and was closed with no sign out!  Joan didn't tell me until after that he was the guy from Italy.



    We took a taxi to Zipolite to have breakfast at a highly recommended place that was also closed when we arrived.  We had breakfast at the Nude Hotel on the beach then looked for Boomer's bar.  I stopped where I stayed 2 years ago when I visited Zipolite last.  Daniel Wiener, the owner remembered me and knew Ron Williams the owner of Boomers.  He told me he is only open at night, keeps a cot there and spends the night, then has breakfast next door on the beach...then returns home to Port Angel to his family.  
        It was hot so I visited Sativa, another place that I liked and considered staying at.  She showed me the room which was fine but I thought it was on a roof top terrace where I could sun myself while enjoying the view but only room for a chair. It was hot so we returned for the afternoon and will try to catch a sunset and a decent restaurant to eat at.
HELP...LET ME OUT OF HERE






    We returned to Sidhartha for a wine then on  to La Cuisine.  We knew they were open tonight and had Electronic Folk music at 8 pm. 



Our dinner was fantastic but Joan wanted to return while I wanted to hear this "Electronic Folk"..mine was always acoustic.  I stayed and she left.  I tried to get my waitress to order a Mescal and get the bill and finally went to the bathroom that was blocked by a Walker.  Finally the man came out I went in. When I returned another was in my seat.  I went to the waitress and she directed me to a table in front of the stage and brought me a Mescal.  The music started and I was enthralled so started taping it on my camera then ordered another Mescal to hear more of Vana Mazi
    A couple near by smiled like they knew me.  Finally Dave came over and invited me to join him and Debby.  They heard our conversation about travel and just sold everything including their transportation and took an early retirement to travel.  First trip was SE Asia.  Now they lived above the restaurant at Posada Ziga and have been noticing me in my underwear and camera.  I took Dave's offer for another Mescal...that's 3 ..over my limit.  I took advantage of the break and introduced myself to the entertainer...I bought his 3 albums...gave him my card and introduced myself .  He was very interested in  Scott Jeffords in Arizona and I assured him that I suspected Scott would be interested in him. I gave Dave my Servas card and email then bid him and his ?? significant other Debby,  Goodbye, Paid the bill then stopped for Sorbet on the way home.  It is 10:20 and I am finishing a j and to bed. Click on Surf to see and hear:
Surf from my Balcony
       
      Such a nice morning.  Shower and then a nice breakfast in the restaurant while watching naked women frolic in the surf.  What more?  Dave and Debby were just finishing their breakfast and returning to  LA before heading out for Guatemala for travel adventure.  I am headed for the Turtle Sanctuary.

    It was interesting and pretty well done ...like a turtle zoo.  Never saw anything like that and I forgot my camera.  I had to return home because of the heat and no available bottled water in the facility.  I thought that rather thoughtless.  Nice afternoon breeze in the room...now time for Pizza? Happy Hour and dinner.

      Mazunte wasn't as hot as I thought.  Humid though, so I did stay in during the afternoon.  I listened to the crashing of the surf all four days.  Very pleasant.  Especially the Nubile Nymphs that played in the surf every morning while I had my breakfast overlooking the beach! Our return was a little nicer than our trip to Mazunte.





     I told Adelina, my maid, not to clean since I was gone four days and moving when I returned.  She went over to empty the trash and saw that I had packed almost everything into boxes so moved it to the new place.  When I returned Deke, the Manager had said he would help with the furniture (my desk,tv stand, tv, end table etc. ) I started moving that evening and Adelina helped with my clothes closet, dresser,etc.  I finally had to tell her to stop.  I was tired from the trip back and moving.  The next day she and I finished moving everything and I gave her 400 pesos...she was happy. 


        I showered then left to get something to eat.  I fixed coffee in the morning but never finished it or ate all day long. I dropped off the wine soaked clothes at the laundry.  They had sent me home the last time with baby socks from another persons laundry.   When I showed him he laughed, took them and gave me a flannel shirt the sock people had given them.  
        I treated myself at Tres Bistro to another Grilled Salmon dinner.  Saul jokingly brought a tray of chocolates over when I finished.  I told him just put it in the Take Out container with the Salmon I couldn't finish.  He came back with 8 chocolates.  I ordered a Carlos I brandy to sip while I enjoyed two of them then put the rest in the bag to enjoy tomorrow. It started to rain so I went to the Taxi stand but the thunder and lightening had everyone taking taxis and none were available.  I walked home in the rain.



        The next day...I was happy but now had to unpack all the boxes, go back and get my oriental shades, special bulbs I bought, toilet seat, etc.  Left my new bathroom faucet but took the shower head I bought. Finally was getting things completed and spent my first night in the place.   I decided to move my double bed into the other room and swap everything.  I still have to take down all the photos I hung and get new ones for the bedroom.   I like this place.

     I think Deke might have rented my old place to the guy who rented my former place.  He has a roomate so they thought between the two of them they could each have their own room.  Not sure if they decided yet.  I gave another dresser to Deke to put in the other room so they would each have there own storage.  Anyway...Happy St Patricks Day.  I go to a nice dinner party tonight.  It is put on by Hagar, an Israel Chef that is very good.  This is my third time eating her food. Just as I was ready to leave...I got a notice from my companion that she was worked out...too tired ...bad day.  I didn't want to go alone and didn't know whether she called and cancelled our reservations and got no response when I asked her?  I stayed home.

Today Joan and I meet for dinner at Tres Bistro...then her last day lunch at Biznaga.


       We bid goodbye after stopping for a Pizza to go for her dinner and plane ride tomorrow. Joan, being the generous spirit she is, brought me Organic Peanut Butter and shared 1/4 of her Pizza for me to sample tonight.  Until our next encounter.  Safe trip.