OH OAXACA! I AM SO HAPPY TO SEE YOU AGAIN! DID YOU MISS ME? I REALLY MISSED YOU!

      Marjorie, my special friend, dropped my off at Sky Harbor Airport and 10 minutes later I had lugged 3 large suitcases through a throng of harried, early morning passengers, checked 2 of the bags and was at the gate staking out my corner seat while enjoying an almond butter sandwich, my breakfast.  TSA pre-check and attentive United Airlines staff members made it smooth and stress less. I boarded on time knowing my checked bags were on there way to Oaxaca for me to pick up there.

     I was sound asleep after a half a Gummy Bear and awoke in Houston refreshed

and hungry for some Texas BBQ served at the Hard Rock Cafe by a flighty, masked , server who couldn't stop laughing and dancing around while entertaining everyone at the counter. The Pork BBQ was excellent.

      The connecting flight was on time and my single window seat , 1 A had ample leg room with no other seats around me.  First Class treatment on a 50% full flight direct to Oaxaca.

      We were greeted with Alcohol spray and sanitizer while directed to stay 6 feet away until we reached baggage claim.  My bags were waiting for me along with an attendant that help load the three bags on a scanner that I don't think really scanned anything. 

Once I passed into the lobby, I paid $5 for my passage to the apartment and a driver was called over to help me load the bags into the van with other passengers going to a similar location.  I always got the seat next to the door as my address was first stop.

     Lulu and Hector, my landlords were their to greet me along with Alejandro the Patron and their son Daniel to assist carrying my heavy bags up the stairs.  What a welcome ritual to help me and make me feel so special.  

      The condo still had my plastic covering on the TV and computers.  Small bottles of Mescal with the worm and Creme Mescal beckoned me to sit and relax. I unpacked

my carry on suitcase.  It took an hour and it was 9 pm so I thought I should get over to the Zocalo where I might find a restaurant open and have dinner.  

     It was a beautiful night but not the large Sunday crowd you would find pre Covid.

Everyone had masks and maintained a polite distance.  Terranova was one of my favorites but packed so I went to Tres Bistro across Zocalo.  The doors leading to the 

second story were closed and a "Controller" was monitoring everyone entering the 

downstairs dining area and passing out sanitizer.  He told me Tres Bistro was closed so I requested a table for one at the downstairs restaurant and was seated. I was browsing the menu when a Tres Bistro server approached me and said that they were closed BUT never for you David. She had been a friend and a server to me for 3 years.

I followed her upstairs my waitress cleaned the only table by the open windows overlooking the Zocalo.  Arturo the bartender greeted me with a glass of my Red Cab and a friendly hello my friend.  I knew his boys and him for a long time too.

 I ordered the same food to save time.  Broiled Salmon with Roasted Fresh Vegetables.  I was on my second glass of wine while munching some of their awesome Fresh Baked Cranberry Bread when my meal showed up.  I dove into it before  I remembered to take a picture for you.

hula hoop honey

                                                            click and go to full view

      Music from down in the Zocalo caught my attention and as I glance over my shoulder I noticed an attractive entertainer doing a Hula-Hoop routine so had to film it. Then she did another with torches.  When she passed the hat, I called to her and waved a 100 bill but she wasn't allowed into the dining area below so I threw it anyway and the waiter below passed it to her as she blew me a kiss.

     I ate the whole meal and wanted a dessert but thought best to leave as I was now one of the few left.  I stopped to talk to Arturo, the bartender.  He said Oaxaca hasn't had available vaccine to administer to the people and he hoped to get him and his family vaccinated this weekend when the President sends the Army to Oaxaca to vaccinate everyone.  He is sending the Navy to another state.  Oaxaca is one of three of the largest and poorest states in Mexico...and unfortunately one of the last to be taken care of.  The Oaxacaquenos know how to take care of themselves and there families.

     I did some more unpacking until 2 am when I finally went to bed after being up since 4:30 am the day before.  I got 2-3 hours sleep on that first flight and that night I slept really well.

      

     Monday I woke around 8 am and had some fantastic fresh brewed coffee still sealed from when I left one and a half years ago for a short vacation in Scottsdale.

I had brought a Cranberry Bread Roll home for breakfast and after unpacking the second suitcase I left to go shopping and have lunch. 

      I hoped to change over lots of dollars I brought, into pesos to pay my annual overdue rent.  I took a taxi to the bank but they said no bank changes dollars to pesos and they knew of no money changer open that they would recommend. Money changers overcharged and in some cases paid you counterfeit Pesos.  So I brought two debit cards from separate bank accounts that I could withdraw 10,000 pesos ($500) each for 20,000 pesos a day, BUT I only had one on me so went to the ATM and discovered they had doubled the fees they charge for any transaction and they limited the amount of the transaction to 7000 pesos. ($350).  I did one transaction then visited Las Rambles for lunch. I had a wonderful Tuna dish and Kambucha while catching up with Salma and Arnud.  None of their family has been able to get the vaccine shots.

 I stopped at my favorite bakery for some homemade Bread and Greek yogurt then picked up a banana and apple for my yogurt.

       I hooked up my TV, Roku, Computer and unpacked the last suitcase.  I didn't have room for everything I brought so had to take all the winter clothes and pack them into one of my now empty suitcases and put it away for winter.  

       I thought of Thomas Wolfe my best Oaxacan friend that was a neighbor when I first arrived.  He had bought a house and gutted it then rebuilt it into a nice two bedroom, two bathroom ,air-conditioned, comfortable home with a state of the art kitchen, huge back yard, and a large patio for BBQ's.  He added raised planters for flowers and vegetables, a three tier custom marble fountain next to the lemon tree. At the entrance to the drive going down the alley to his house he installed a hand wrought iron fence with "Fleur de Lis" emblems from his home state of Louisiana, with built in lock and keys for the other neighbors to use that lived across from his home in the back.  He parked his car at the very end of the drive.  He would call me on weekends for a shopping run to Sam's Club, Home Depot , and Walmart.  We would go out to eat once every two weeks or so.  He had agreed to take up playing pool again at the local pool hall with other gringos on Tuesdays.  It was never to be. While still at

home trying to plan a return to Oaxaca , I sent him a Birthday greeting and three days later received a reply from his sister (she was the reason he put in the A/C so she would visit)...Tomas had passed away March 17th in his home.  

SAD NEWS 

Thomas "Tom" James Wolfe, a voracious reader of mystery and detective books and a member of the OLL since he retired to Oaxaca approximately eight years ago, died suddenly on March 18, 2021 in Oaxaca. He was 67 years old. Tom created a full and satisfying life in Oaxaca, embracing his community by helping local students pay for their tuition and books.  Tom grew up in Baton Rouge, went to college in Austin took a detour to South America for a period of time, returned to Baton Rogue, moved to Houston and had a successful career as a Wall Street executive. During these times he was married and divorced twice. He was bigger than life with a heart to match. Tom lived his life his way. He traveled the world. He loved to read and never met a stranger. He was the only son of Thomas and Anne Wolfe and brother to Dianne Bennett-Talbot, Anne Ellis and Madelon Loret and Madeline McAndrew. He was uncle to Suni Ellis Unger, Damien Wolfe Metrailer, Philip Thomas Loret and Michael Thomas McAndrew. He was loved and will be missed. Tom loved flowers and so in lieu of any memorial services, please give flowers to someone you know so that you can brighten their day as Tom did on many, many occasions for those he cherished and loved.       

            I found an unopened box of California Chablis.  My choice of wine was Red and Tom's was white.  We both would clear the shelves when Oaxaca would have a citywide sale on everything once a year called Blue Fin day or something like that. We would each stock up.  He with his White and me with my Red. So I unscrewed the plastic top and poured a glass to toast my friend.  I had to spit it out it was so rancid I dumped the box down the sink.  Then I saw Tom in my mind with a big smile giving me the finger.  You can't drink without me!  I had to laugh...he was sending me a message.

            Tuesday I had my great coffee and the Greek Yogurt with Apple/Banana/Cinnamon/Natural Yeast/Brewers Yeast/Crushed Nuts/ and powdered Crickets for added protein.  Yes they sell Crickets to nibble on like chips but this came from USA where they grow the crickets them dry them and turn them into powder for smoothies or my yogurt.

     I went to the library and paid my dues for a year and asked Carlos if I could bring a suitcase with some books I brought to donate as well as some clothes and miscellaneous stuff that might be sold at the next fundraiser.  He was happy to accept me and offered to help me when I arrived on Wednesday and the entrance was a constructions zone.  A new Hostel/Cafe  was being built by investors and it was a mess. 

    I went back to the ATM machine armed with two debit card and withdrew 14000 pesos this time.  I stopped in Las Ramblas again for a lunch of Shrimp Alfredo Fettuccine then returning  to the bakery to pick up some homemade peanut butter to go with the bread I bought.   

      The whole town has checkpoints entering any building and you can't leave through the entrance...must leave through the designated exits.  Can't go in without masks and most people outside wear masks. 

      The Zocalo and the Alcala are blocked from non essential traffic with road blocks and guards to make sure you come in the right place.  I was very impressed and assured. I think Lulu , my landlady, was concerned when I returned to go upstairs she offered the sanitizer and I refused because I sanitized my hand 7 times including the last place I was at...BUT I thought she was concerned because the maid comes to my casa and repairmen and whatever...so I should make sure my apartment is sterile.

     I do it to ease her mind and I explained that to Daniel, and Hector.  I would use it each time so she can sleep at night.  Oaxaca is being very vigilant but I don't think that more than 30-40% are vaccinated yet and won't be in the near future. So they could get the Delta wave...and just before I left I checked and they are in danger. 

      I did this for almost a year before they came out with and gave me the vaccine so it's not a problem.  You do have to get back into wearing the mask everywhere.   

        

         

       It was another nice nights rest.  I think walking everyday is helping my circulation though I still go through the pain, it is getting better.    I took a taxi to the library with

my suitcase full of donations.  I managed, with help from the construction crew, to navigate the sheet rock and wheel barrels, etc.  Carlos was out to lunch but a lady I recognize was watching the desk so took the suitcase.  

    I did my ATM routine at the Zocalo today and as I was walking through the Zocalo I encountered Pedro and Geraldo, two of my favorite waiters at Terranova restaurant.

We chatted a bit while they were setting up for lunch.  Pedro just got his first shot and hoped he could get the rest of his family their shot this week.  He told me his sister contracted Covid and passed away in December.  He was visibly upset telling me the story when I asked about the health of the rest of the family?  He said they were all fine, she died in Mississippi with her husband.  Pedro had worked Italian restaurants in L.A. and spoke good English.  He got his first shot of Pfizer today. He and his sister formed an organization to help children read.   Geraldo had worked and lived in Wisconsin for a couple years with his father working in Apple orchids.    

         I walked to the bakery to get some homemade peanut butter to go with the bread I bought the day before.  I decided to eat there and discovered some new items on the menu.  Mike, my Chef long time friend from Vegas had wrote about an article in Chef's magazine about the "Oaxacan" hot sauce with nuts in it that was singled out as some of the best Salsa in Mexico.  Belanc makes it and serves it there, though it is too hot for my taste.  I wrote Mike about it and my lunch.

Re: Salsa Macho heats up dishes from tacos to hot dogs

        I taste salsa but I don't eat it. My body doesn't like it.  The best is a similar recipe but made daily at Belanc.  It's a bakery/restaurant that shames any bakery I've been to and most restaurants.  Run by two Mexicans from Chihuahua I think.  They went to school in France for baking and Spain for Culinary Arts..then came to Oaxaca 5 years ago, and opened a small bakery with a counters in front on both sides.  One is display pastries to take out or  eat with coffee or lunch at the other counter.  They were so packed with lines out the door the day they opened it.  They got a couple of people to carry large baskets around to the Zocalo and on corners to sell bread.

       At the end of the year they moved across the street into two connecting buildings.  Built a huge prep kitchen for making  pickled vegetables, peanut butter, almond butter, fresh Greek yogurt/Turkish yogurt, jams ,jellies,mustard, canned fruits, kombucha, etc...that was to sell at the bakery with a display for baked goods along the whole length of the room and at the end wall...they merchandised all the jarred products and the other wall merchandised the refrigerated products.  All of these are on the menu in the huge dining area connected that also has 2-3 dining rooms...with a great little bar in the back for informal snacks , sandwiches and regular or individual pizzas that are cooked in their huge wood burning brick domes oven at the entrance into the kitchen from the dining room.

         These guys live upstairs...where they roast the best Mexican coffee in town. Oh, the hot salsa is the same basic recipe shown in the article you sent but everyone I bring there, tries it and has to take it home.  They all rave about it being the most outstanding they have ever had.  These guys don't serve anything that isn't perfect , original, fresh , prepared to order, etc etc.  PS...I ate a Reuben Sandwich made with RoastBeef, homemade best sauerkraut, on their homemade brown rye pecan bread ,melted Swiss and a side of homemade Sweet/Sour butter pickles and another relish of pickled jalapeno peppers...ate all the pickles, all the sandwich and had a fresh Orange Juice with fermented Beet juice mixed in. 

          Then I took home a Pizzarette .  A small pizza with two different cheeses and spinach.  And stopped at the bakery to get a jar of their fresh peanut butter.  I already had the Greek yogurt at home for breakfast with their Ciabatta toast.  

     I am so happy to be here.  Only about 20% have been able to get the vaccine but 95% wear masks everywhere and the Army is arriving this weekend to administer more of the vaccine.   

    I returned home and relaxed while finishing my Colson Whitehead wonderful book on Texas Holdem and the WSOP.  

         Thursday morning and after my coffee I decided to eat breakfast out today.  I took the wrong bus to the library and got off to walk the rest of the way. I remembered a really nice Cafe run by a Mexican lady and her Greek husband that was still open so stopped it.  I didn't see a menu and didn't care about another coffee so I saw Beet on the drink menu.  It was the powdered Beets that I just bought in Az the day before I left.  He mixed it with hot milk and served it like a latte.  I had a Croissant that was in the display case.  While enjoying my reunion with Mara and Mica's Cafe, I saw her delivering food to diners outside.  When I asked she brought me a menu.  It was too late now so I vowed to return and went on to the library to drop off my recently finished book.  

        I passed a nice health food store I remember so dropped in and bought some arugula and spinach also.  After I dropped of the book I did the ATM again and picked up two bottles of wine for my date to have Oxtail Pho in Hauyapam at Annalisa's invitation. I took a taxi home and forgot to eat.  I will make some canned salmon salad.  Another great day and time to post this.

    If you are wondering why I go to the ATM everyday, it's because I pay annually and missed my payment when I got stuck in Arizona over Covid.  I use 2 Debit cards from 2 different banks and get the maximum daily.  HSBC lowered the maximum amount and doubled the fees...so it's taking me a few days.