I returned to the library and visited with Kay and told her about Darcy. She spent Christmas visiting Pan and Don , his sister and brother in law. I went to have breakfast next door to the Mariposa with the International Chef. It was very good for $4. I walked around the park and heading back to my Posada when there was a knock on the door. They did deliver my laundry. Wow.
I'm off to meet Darcy and take the bus to his place in the country. He was with a friend...a retired CIA agent, if they ever retire. He lives in a gated community here and has friends he visits in Budapest, Saudi Arabia, etc...you get the point. A wonderful, colorful gentleman of around 75 years. He had his ID's stolen but his lawyer showed up to let him know they were recovered at a check point on the way to Mexico City but what was left in the wallet is not certain. He left with her to pursue the matter after giving me a lot of advice on living here and different options. Meanwhile Darcy had found a home for rent but a considerable distance from town. He wanted me to join him to see for myself what living in the country was like.
We took the local bus to his house...only about 20 minutes and 6 pesos away. It is gated and his dogs greeted us. It was not locked and neither was his SUV in the drive. The house was wide open...a bit of a bachelor pad for sure. Darcy is a free spirit. The house and yard could be very nice with a little elbow grease and paint. His dogs were friendly and after I took some photos, he suggested we drive over to visit Don and Pat his sister and husband and their FOUR dogs.
We arrived with Darcy dogs and they all had great time. The property was very nice. They had been there I think 7 years and fixed it up. They are CouchSurfers also and was hosting a lovely couple in their late 30's from New Zealand that are traveling around the world. I think she was Maori and he was just a Kiwi. They were fun and extremely well traveled and intelligent as was Pat and Don. Don called Jan, the owner of the property for rent or sale. No answer. I really wanted to get something confirmed before I left even thought I had the sublet to return to in June for more looking around. Pat was cooking while Don filled me in on his view point of the beaches in the area, living in the country, the beauty and history of Oaxaca. The sun was setting and I didn't want to leave in the dark to catch a bus alone to return. Darcy said he would drive me to the bus stop and Don made another call to Jan. Jan answered but the Realtor had someone at the house that was interested. I got on the phone and told her I would meet her Thursday and she agreed to show me the house. I'm am extremely interested in this property after talking to Don. He did a lot of the work at the house for Jan and praised it up and down...it is a distance but there is a bus stop right out front. The bus doesn't run back to the house past 8 or 9 at night though. You have to take a cab or maybe I'll buy a motor bike.
Darcy drove me to meet his friend Al that owns a tire shop and is right where the bus stops. Al lived in Chicago a bit and visited a short time. Loves to fish for trout nearby and is one big tough looking Hombre with a heart. I caught the bus back and changed to dine at Nazgaga ...a highly debated restaurant. Lots of snobby people love it...others say the service was arrogant...but very few said the food was bad. I arrived with a couple waiting in line...no host stand or sign in. A "bus boy? directed me to a lounge seat and gave me a menu while inquiring as to how many. I am solo. Shortly after he seated me at a table for four in a large open courtyard that seated maybe 60 people. It was full.
The roof was retractable and tonight was half open to the sky. A bar was on one wall of the courtyard. The menu was posted on two huge blackboards that covered one whole side of the courtyard. More decor than to read but very dramatic effect...as was all the decor. The floor was concrete but had lines embedded in the concrete so the chairs didn't make that terrible grating sound when you moved them. The chaired were roped backs and bottoms so they weren't hard or uncomfortable. There were NO seasonings on the table ever. No Salt, Pepper, Salsa, Sugar, anything but one very attractive candle. I liked that.
I had a choice of 4 different house red wines. Each from a different country. I took the Chilean red and they poured the wine at the table very generously for $5 a glass. Excellent. The Watercress Soup with Corn Dumpling arrived accompanied by hot flour tortillas. Next came the Shrimp on rice with Tamarind Mole sauce with more hot flour tortillas and another glass of the wine. All the while more people arrived that left and the place was busy. There was a problem with the dining room. No direction or organization. Every bus person and server were doing there best but they were bumping into each other with no direction. I got my bill of 400 Pesos and gave them my card. The head waiter returned it with 55 Pesos cash and explained a mistake was made and the card was charged 455 Peso so he returned the balance in cash for me. I wanted to leave a tip but had no idea how I could as it was too confusing. I took his apology and the money and left. The rule in Oaxaca as the locals explain...the French don't tip at all, the Canadian's are cheap and leave 10% at the most, the Americans are the big spenders and the Mexicans never tip...not done but that's is accepted. I will go back but will set at the bar and eat next time... or maybe just have some more of the wine!
Each day seems to get better and better.
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