24 - 12 VISIT TO THE BEACH, CHRISTMAS, AND RETURNING FRIENDS

 The begining of December and the end of the Year.  Got to get my ticket to Zipolite for Wednesday.  Transportation is limited now the new Highway by passes Zipolete there are not as many options but my hotel is already booked so I will feel better when I have my ticket in hand.

Way back When...the Perverts Gathering

I took a walk down to Tasty Vin for the Saturday Grilled Fresh Tuna with Salad and Mashed Potatoes...and a glass of Wine.

Returned to the Zocalo today. Still adding more Pointsetta's the Spanish introduced to North and South America...I heard?

     Quick in and out to get that "Church Feeling"

Dominos Day with Barry and Maddie.  Beth joined us for lunch after at Ayuk.

Maddie called the ticket office and reserved a spot for my trip.  I followed up and went to pay and pick-up.  Turned out to be a different company then I thought. I bought the ticket and cancelled the reserved one.   

      

 I boarded the Van at 10am the next morning.  It was a beautiful ride down except lots of stops for construction along the way.

  We arrived in Pochotla around 2pm then took a taxi to Zipotite. The 4 hour van ride was 300 pesos and the 25 minute taxi was 400 pesos! The new highway to Puerto Escondido bypasses Zipolite and since it's opening, business is down due to the difficulty and time to get there.  

         I checked right in to Casa Mextica, a lovely place and A/C room.

WINDOW VIEW

5th Ave N.Y. but Made in Mexico!

I lived in a Naturist Resort in the Arizona Desert for 10 years and basked in the Sun everyday, all day with no suntan lotion.  You learn to start slowly and build up over a month before laying out all day.  As I grew older I did use Lotion. Fair skinned people...Irish, etc should always use lotion.  Now I haven't been in the Sun for years and prefer poolside cabanas over sandy beaches.

       I headed for one of my hangouts with a view of the beach for a glass of wine. Big mistake on an empty stomach so headed to another hangout for a beer and Shrimp Ceviche along with a Greek Salad. Excellent.  

Zipolite is a Clothing "Optional" Beach and I believe the only public one in Mexico.  The others are Hotel and European Resorts.  Technically all beaches are public in Mexico, so you may return to your place on the beach that you bought years ago and find a Mexican family reunion on your front porch and beach.  Welcome them and they will invite you to join them.

This food was fresh, excellent, inexpensive and served with a Modela Beer and a smile!

                           Babysitter on the Beach

       Later I stopped back at the room to freshen up for dinner at Provencia...my favorite restaurant.  Xavier the owner greeted me then later while waiting for my "Beet Tower" and Fresh Mahi Mahi Tamirind, he joined me.  I said I haven't seen you in 6 years since my last visit. He corrected me and said he didn't see me then it was the year before. That is why he is the owner and his partner is the Chef.  This restaurant was owned by his parents many years ago.  He learned the business as a child working with his parents. Wonderful place.  

My meal was so good, especially the Mahi.  I had a glass of Pinot Noir with the meal but no dessert. 

     Sitting by the kitchen brought back memories of my Chef years!

                     Xavier checking tonights reservations?

I destroyed this beautiful presentation. Years after my previous visit, I tried to duplicate this simple but elegant dish with its nuances of flavor and texture.  Never quite got it right but now I believe it's because I used Grapefruit section instead of Orange?

     Returning to Casa Mixteca I noticed "The Pub" was open. A friend of mine I met in Oaxaca several years ago, had a desire to live in a beach community so after a time in Oaxaca he went to Zipolite to open a small bar he had been making plans for.  He ran it for 3 or more years.  I visited him once just after he arrived there and had taken a place in Port Angel to stay.  I followed his progress on FBook. He opened The Pub and had a nice following. He is very personable guy.     I was returning after all those years to visit Zipolite again and emailed him to tell him. I was going to stay at the Nude Hotel. He arranged for a large discount for me of which I was very thankful BUT when I went to visit him, Paul, his manager, told me he left The Pub to him to run and moved out of the area. 

   Paul and I got to know each other during that week but after I returned to Oaxaca, Covid arrived and it wasn't until now, I got to see Paul again. Xavier told me the new road did slow business a bit and Paul agreed.  I had another glass of wine while visiting with Paul. 

Today I just walked around observing the new businesses and changes since my last visit then later, left for more fresh fish at Provencia. 

 I had the Mahi Mahi again but Yucutan style with Mango Souffle. The Chef came to my table and introduced himself and we had a nice brief chat.

    I stopped at The Pub but the only seat was taken so I joined him. Had a wine and a shot then left for Gelato then returned to Casa Mixteca. The Puebla was busy tonight.  I checked out a Sushi bar. I will eat Sushi when Provencia is closed on Monday. Days are passing quickly.

Tom, my new friend, didn't care for Wine so I bought him a Tequila he liked!

 

Very festive in the evening.  I had a Golden Milk (Ginger) Gelato and returned.

Left early in the morning for a walk on the beach and some coffee, juice and banana bread.

Street is dead compared to the evenings...when it is full with people, dining, and music.

       

                                     GREAT SUNRISE

Later I ate at a Creperia across the street. Convenient.  Off for dinner at Provencia.  I enjoyed Goat Cheese Turnovers, then Ribeye Steak with Red Wine sauce, Saute Potatoes, Green Beans and Rice with a nice glass of Red Wine.

This morning I went to a new place where I previously had a wonderful Cappaccino and great friendly service.  The experience was the same this time...except I ordered the Avocado Toast which was more like Guacamole on Toast with two Eggs Sunnyside up But one was hard the other almost the same?  The Verde Juice and Cappaciano was excellent as was the service. 

           I returned to my room to relax and read a bit. 

     Later I went back to Mao Moa for the 3rd time to try their lunch....this time they were OPEN.  I ordered the Vietnemese Bau Dai Sandwich for $10...it came with Fries that I would have asked to sub something but never saw that on the menu to even ask. The sandwich was with fatty chewy chicken and if it did have Pate like the menu said, I didn't taste it.  I asked and was told it did???  The waiter/owner?? was very nice but when he asked if I enjoyed it while paying, I told him eh!  I don't think he was the owner because he responded with no comment. If he was the owner...I wish him well...he will need it.

Lovely place!

    I had my room cleaned and returned to just clean up a bit and take a little nap before heading to Provencia for my dinner.  I arrived  ordered Shrimp Turnovers, Merlot wine, and Grilled Fresh Tuna on Watermelon! All so good in such a pleasant atmosphere...it was wonderful to have an all in one dining experience that satisfying.  

            Xavier sat down and we discussed the recent murder of the CEO of United Healthcare.  He didn't get any vibes from the news or comments that anyone had any empathy for the CEO as a person.  I had to agree.  Head CEO rich and dead...why?    The overall reaction seemed to be who cares...what if it was Bernie Sanders or whatever...I gave up watching the news since so much of it is about shootings.  

    Years ago, Chris and I stayed at the Hostel on Amsterdam in N.Y.C. Westside where the suspected murderer stayed. 

      His  smiling face when he checked in, was on the news. He appeared  like a nice guy not a hired murderer.  WTF is going on in the US?

       On the way to the PUB I noted a Truck Kitchen selling Falafel Wraps for 100 Pesos..$5.  I ordered one to put in the fridge for breakfast and sat down.  Three tattooed beach guys had the same idea.

     

 I headed for the PUB to say hello to Paul but he was coming later' I joined an ex Marine from Aspen, that I met two nights ago and we chatted a bit about Football as that is what he did in the Marines...played football.  I can see why they recruited him...I sure wouldn't want to play against him. He was a tall handsome, giant that said he still makes his bed every morning...as I do.  A legacy from the Military training. Paul told me that Donavan's (his name), father played Football in the Marines also.

    I had to share my seat with two cats this time.  Cats are capitvating!  They were also hungry and smelled my Falafel Wrap...the Tom Cat was intimidating until the barmaid gave him some chow to distract him. As soon as he was finished he came sniffing back for my Falafel.  I paid and left.  I ran into a struggling entertainer I just met while waiting for my Falafel Wrap. He was hungry so I gave it to him and retired to my Casa Mixteca. 

    This morning I tried a new place I quite liked.  Normal breakfast, juice and coffee.  

Watching the Diplomat on Netflix...it's got me hooked! That evening was Coconut Shrimp at Provancia.

 

Last call at The Pub...Tom the Cat and I...

Stopped at the beach this morning...then tried a new place for Breakfast. Pleasant.

 

Provencia is Closed today so I planned to try the only Sushi place in town and was pleasantly surprised. 

Last Breakfast in Zipolite until next year...

Life is wonderful....off by taxi to Puerto Escondido...to eat MORE Seafood at Turtle Bay with the number one Waiter, Rolando, who is counting his 6-7th year there!  I knew him when he took care of me in Oaxaca!  Wonderful visit and food we had. 

Took these last two photos from the taxi while passing through...to Camino del Sol 3 star hotel within walking distance to Turtle Bay.

I had 1 pm reservations for 4 at Turtle Bay, which opened at 1pm. I walked the "Strip" while waiting until Rolando pulled up on his Motorbike with his Son, who dropped him off. 

Some really nice homes in the neighborhood with views of the Bay.

Lots of people heading for the Beach, a close 15 minutes from the restaurant. 

My first meal was the House Salad...Wow...then Fresh Dorado..or Mahi-Mahi Baked with great fresh Vegetables ...no dessert but Rolando talked me into two glasses of Wine! Early afternoon at 1pm...Maddie and her 2 girlfriends were suppose to meet me but we got the day mixed up.  They were having a reunion getaway from the States to have a beachside gathering.

 

 I returned and later that evening I laid out by the pool for 2X1 Margaritas and a SWIM.  First swim since I lost 50lbs or 25% of my body weight.  I sunk...had to work to stay afloat...maybe it was the Margaritas?  Took a shower and finished the Netflix 2 Seasons of The Diplomat.  Highly recommend this intelligent entertaining, well written and acted series.  There will be Season 3 and more I suspect.

          I returned the next day for more of that Mahi-Mahi but this time I tried an Oriental version with Ginger which was Outstanding.

I was going to return that evening for Lobster...but it was so hot and humid, I opted to cancel that and get some rest for my return to Oaxaca. 

I took a couple photos but this was the only one that came out. I have to say, the Salad was excellent but the Oriental Mahi Mahi made the whole trip to P. Escondido worth it.  

    When I got back to the hotel, I took..my 5th shower in 2 days then headed for 2 x 1 Margaritas but after the first...I was so tired from the heat and my eyesight was blurry so I slowly returned the 3 flights of stairs to my room and fell asleep.  The breakfasts at the hotel were nice but basic cooked to order and I was more interested in the coffee so never took any photos, except the lobby Christmas Tree on the way to the Taxi that took me a short ride to the Bus station.

I rode up front and slept for at least one hour.  We took the "New Road" to Oaxaca that I was told cut the time from 6 hours to 3 hours.

It turned out the road wasn't really quite finished and one lane shared in both directions at construction points that were not finished yet. Nor was the Toll booths, Rest Stops, and Gas Stations.  The road was amazing and sitting in the bus we went over many Mountain Pass bridges and I saw many overhead bridges for crossroads to other villages. I can now understand why it took 5 years plus and it's still not complete. Amazing and difficult through the Sierra Madre!! We arrived in about 4 hours at 2 pm. I took a taxi straight home and started shopping to get things for me and MY GUEST: Erik, who is from Michigan and has been in a remote Mixte pueblo, high up in the Sierra Madre...freezing his butt off while photographing 5 days of Celebrating "Our Lady of Guadalupe" , one of thee most celebrated days of the year in Mexico.  I will include a couple of his blogs and photos of this 5 day Battle of the Bands, pueblos get together from all around, Boxing matches, Rodeos, Food, Music and Processions.  I understood from Mixte people I had met years ago that everyone there learns to play an instrument ASAP.  Few people can afford them but donations enable many to learn and they have they Won the Battle of the Bands which came from all around for this event.  Eric said he never heard a band that was so professional. He has been coming here for years with his wife to dance and is a Doctor who also speaks fluent Spanish, but didn't help him with Mixte and other various languages spoken.  Some don't speak English or Spanish but their native language of which there are 63 just in the State of Oaxaca or maybe it's Mexico.  Highly recommend his blogs.

             

                            I'm sitting behind the driver...???

Eric arrived the following day, exhausted with same clothes he wore 

the entire time!  To cold to change and had layered almost all he brought to stay warm.

 

        Must  be the Full Moon but both of us adjusted quickly to being back in Oaxaca de Juarez.

Two days and his friend picked him up for Breakfast today. After he Taxi's to Airport and back to Michigan.

I cooked a bit, lunched and played on the computer until 6pm then ate at Casa Celia, a "Barcelona" theme.  My Salad was great, but the Chicken Stew was dry.  The Chef/Owner promptly took it off the bill, which is exactly what I would have done. I will still eat and recommend Casa Celia as one of the better restaurants in Oaxaca.

Same moon taken through the window with my great Galaxy Lens.

I send this post out tomorrow and start the last half of December post, to include Christmas, Library Year End Fund Raiser Sale and life in Oaxaca during the holidays. Please enjoy.