DEPARTURE & ARRIVAL PHNX/OAX/ZIPOLETE

     I returned from NY with lots of final Doctor's appointments and scripts to pick up so I would have enough in Mexico for 5 months since I was leaving early this year. Marjorie and I had lunch at Roland's Market on Van Buren.

Both may not look good but were..

It is a new Mexican Fusion Restaurant with Chris Bianca as part owner.  We went there after visiting a great exhibit at the Phoenix Art Museum about the Aztec Temple City that is now Mexico City.  We got there in time to catch a Docent Tour by a retired Professor and really enjoyed it.

      We left Indiana Jones's Grandpa and checked out a strange Scandinavia Art Exhibit and weird fashions.

MY FAVORITE 

ANOTHER OF MY FAVORITES

My internet glasses arrived that day.  Mr Cool or what?

         Debbie, my long time ago girlfriend did her annual pilgrimage to Phoenix to visit her dear friends Sonya and Mark.  We did our annual dinner together when she doesn't that.  Great food at Franco's on Scottsdale Road.  A place I've wanted to go since hearing about it a couple years ago.  Franco greeted us so I got to tell him how special I was.  I don't think he was impressed.  I have to stop doing that.
       I did get in touch with Active International once at an India Fest at the Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts. 

While there I visited the Scottsdale Contemporary Museum to see an exhibit from Mexico...fashion, art and weird machines that came on and off playing music when they felt like it.

        I tried to attend all my chair exercises at the Senior Center...one lady brought her service dog.

     My favorite neighbor Jeannie faithfully pounded on my door at 4:15 am to take me to the airport bound for Houston on Southwest Air then a connecting flight to Mexico City.

That went well but I booked two flights in Mexico City to Oaxaca...one at 2:30 departure and one at 7:15 departure.  I hoped if I arrived at 1:30...I could catch the early flight but didn't realize it was in another terminal that I didn't even know existed and I had to take a train to get there. I ran and hired a porter to help when the pain in my legs slowed me down.  Got the train then ran to the gate to discover the plane was already boarded and on the tarmac for takeoff.
     I was exhausted and pissed at myself for such an early flight.  I could have taken a later flight on Southwest and slept later.  Then I would have had less time to wait at Mexico City airport too.  I wanted to get to Oaxaca early but instead fought to stay awake until my connection with Interjet got me there around 9:30 that evening.

 

      I unpacked and moved in before going to bed after Midnight then slept until Noon.
     That day was spent unpacking all that I had put in storage boxes my last visit and setting up the TV, computers, refrigerator, and doing a shopping inventory.  I ate out that night and went to bed early.  It was nice to be back.
     My friend Annalisa emailed a welcome so she came to town and we met at Tasty Wine for catching up on news and our summer.  She had her house painted and discovered you can buy forbidden things on a 420 web merchant called Mercado Libre that is Mexico, Central and South America's version of Amazon with much cheaper prices.  You can have your purchases delivered or pick them up at your closest OXOX...Circle K or 7/11 equivalent.  We will see each other after I return from Zipolete.
    I headed for my favorite restaurant the next morning for Avocado Toast and Coffee

and then to the library to drop some books I donated from home. I saw a few friends around Oaxaca and we exchanged pleasantries. Stopped at Importador to touch base with waiter Alex and have my Wine and treat myself to a Mezcal.

He gave me Rolando's number to text in Puerto Escondido.  If I made it, I was going to eat at his new place of employment, The Turtle Bay Seafood Restaurant. I was still tired so bedded down early that evening after watching some Anthony Bourdain on my TV.
  The next day I was off to Walmart but I realized the bus I was on goes to Chedrui, Mexico's Walmart.  The last time I shopped there they had a lot of organic foods and imported products so I decided to return. I got off the bus and took a slightly different route to get there. My legs were cramping up as I saw a family exiting an attractive building that turned out to be an Organic Restaurant. I was hungry with no breakfast and it was lunch time so decided to eat before I shopped.  I had a nice Eggs Benedict with fresh Spinach on Wheat Toast with a fresh squeeze Orange Juice for $5.

     Chedrui had improved even more so I stocked up on Almond/Coconut Milk, California Wine, eggs and some toiletries and overpriced Omega 3 Fish Oil I forgot to bring.  A Taxi dropped me back at the house for $3 and I packed a bit for Zipolete then met Tom that evening at Tres Bistro for dinner.
     Saul greeted us at the door and brought some complimentary appetizers while I sipped my Red Wine and Tom his Martini with three olives.  It was nice to see him and though he said I could stay at his new home anytime, it turned out his furniture in storage from Brooklyn that had been ordered to be picked up at a warehouse in New Orleans and shipped by boat to Pueblo, just arrived after 2 months and way over $15,000 in fees, customs, and charges...was still sitting in customs.  So no bed for me.  The house sounds really nice.  Everything custom done from New Orleans style wrought iron gates to his driveway to Red Lacquered custom kitchen cabinets.  I saw the house just as the remodel was taking place.  New plumbing, electrical, A/C, appliances, Tile Roof, patio, floors, hand crafted wooden doors...well you get the idea.

       We wanted to have a night cap but the noise was intense so we headed for our popular Epicure Bistro down the street for last call before heading our separate ways. It was good to see him again and despite his long wait for his furniture, he seemed to take it all in stride.
      Finally the big day arrived and I hauled my bags to the collectivo departure point.  I had reserved the front seat as the switchbacks through the Sierra Madre are never ending for over 3 hours of the 6 hour ride over the summit and down to the Pacific Ocean.  Our driver spoke no English but smiled and communicated well.  We picked up travelers on the road as we went along and a young lady from Manchester England that was taking some time in Manzute where I went last year.  When we got to San Jose de Pacifico we stopped for a little lunch and rest before continuing on.  This village is famous for it's Magic Mushrooms and people from all over come to stay for a few days in different resorts, B and B's , that cater to that clientele .  It is on the top of the mountain, COLD, and has some of the best coffee plantations in the world but the coffee is shipped out of Mexico where it fetches a high price.  I have never had any Magic Mushrooms but when I do...it will be there.

     We continued our journey through the clouds...literally!  For the last hour and most of the rest of the trip we were in the clouds at high altitude. Though you could look to the left and then the right and see miles below in both directions, you could see nothing but clouds just 50 or 70 feet away for hours.
     Our driver, being a fun  loving guy put on "Knock Knock Knocking on Heavens Door" with Bob Dylan then the Beatles, Eagles, and just as I was going to request Pink Floyd as a joke...on comes Another Brick in the wall. It made the last part of the trip very special though he liked it really loud.
     I got off at the outskirts of Zipolete and walked the couple blocks through the center of the village to Hotel Nude.  Though Zipolete boasts one of the few sanctioned Nude Beaches in Mexico...most of the nudity is around the Hotel Nude and at the end of the beach.  Morning you will see nude joggers and walkers that go the whole length of the beach but as it warms up they settle on one end...where the surf is.  Surfers are out all day fighting the waves for a 10 second rush on the crest of a wave.  It is fun to watch...especially when they are nude. Ladies usually wear a bra and guys a jock of some kind but the body surfers are nude.

       I had dinner at the hotel that night and easily fell asleep after a couple hits off a pipe I brought.  Marijuana is readily available and very casually used but not on the street with tourist though you can smell it in the air.
       I excitedly ran out the next morning after putting on suntan lotion and mosquito repellent to protect against Dengue. As I sat down I noticed a black circle on the shin of my left leg that I hadn't noticed before.  When I took a good look...it was unsettling...skin cancer.  I've seen it so much on others.
      I rushed to a doctor who charged me $3 and recommended I go to the clinic in Puerto Escondido where they could remove it and test for cancer.  She called and made the earliest appointment I could get for Friday..5 DAYS AWAY.  I arranged a taxi to take me on the hour to two hour ride for a 6:30 appointment in the evening.  I called my friend Rolando at the Turtle Bay Restaurant and made a reservation for early dinner so I could see him. He left Oaxaca for more money on the coast because the striking Teachers in Oaxaca drove all the business away.The teachers left the day I arrived?  Go figure.
          I had some nice Dorado Steaks with Tamarind Sauce, Fresh Mashed Potatoes a Salad and Wine for $10 at Don Franco's and am retiring early tonight.

           My computer froze the next day.  I gave up after hours of Googling for help on my phone and trying different suggested ways of resetting it.
       I went for late breakfast on the terrace.  The waiter, Cesar noticed me writing in my note book and inquired "Are you writing a book" .   I explained before the computer I did keep a journal but haven't written more than a shopping list since.  It showed, I could barely read my own handwriting.  I explained my frozen computer and he suggested I give him a shot at putting it right. Since anyone is more savvy then I at computers, I agreed.
        The next day I stopped over to visit a friend and owner of a nearby hotel I stayed at my last visit.
Daniel was learning how to fly his drone.  I had breakfast down the street and returned to my room before heading for The Pub to join the locals for Happy Hour.

        Friday came along and my trip to Puerto Escondido to meet with Rolando at his place of employment for lunch and to attend my Dermatologist's appointment at the Clinic Angel del Mar.
The woman at the hotel where I booked the taxi had no idea what I was taking about and demanded 750 pesos to call a cab.  I explained I already put 500 down and have 250 for her but have to leave NOW to get there in time. This went back and forth and she made some phone calls etc until the taxi driver that was parked just down the street walked over with his copy of my payment and then her husband arrived on his motorbike with one daughter on the back and one in his arms.  She woke him with the phone call but he never told her I was coming. It was Keystone Cops with all the confusion but Felipe, my taxi driver and I made it on time at record speed.
          I had to use my GPS to direct him the last 2 miles to Turtle Bay restaurant in a strip plaza. He had to go around a medium in the road and pulled in to drop me off.  I was bidding him goodbye and he wrote his name and number down in case I needed him in the future.  I didn't look at the sign and just walked right out of the taxi into the restaurant but didn't see Rolando.  I asked but they spoke little English so seated me and gave me two menus.  He thought Rolando was coming to join me. Then I realized I was at the wrong place.
           Turtle Bay was next door with Rolando anxiously awaiting me.

We caught up on things since last year when I left Oaxaca and he left to come to this new job. The place featured Fresh Seafood and was very nice with reasonable prices.  I ordered a featured Special of Fresh Tuna with Rice and Vegetables. It was so good I ordered Mussels in a Coconut Mango wine sauce that were excellent.  I was having an after dinner Cappuccino when  a gentleman sat at the table next to me. Rolando presented him with a menu when he explained his wife would be joining him. Then a large party arrived and sat in the restaurant.  Rolando was busy taking their drink orders when the wife joined her husband.  He knew what he wanted and after a moment she did to and started looking away for Rolando who was at the bar loading drinks to serve.  The couple got up and was leaving so I commented that the Seafood was the best here.  She looked at me and in anger and said "We don't have time for BAD service!" and stormed out.  I almost yelled ...go back to San Diego, you don't deserve Mexico.  Rolando and I took some photos exchanged good byes and I got a taxi to the Clinic a bit early.

         I reported in and explained I was early and would wait when a short time later the Doctor called my name and I entered his office.  So what is the problem he said.  I proceeded to show him the mark on my leg and he said...did you bump that recently.  I explained maybe but would have been a long time ago and don't remember nor do I remember seeing it there before so thought it suspicions.  At that time I started to drop my pants and tell him I have another Mole that needs removal when he said you don't want me...you want the Dermatologist.   Whoops....wrong Doctor.
      Shortly there after she brought me into her office, dismissed my bump on the leg and asked to check me out.  Immediately she discovered two pre cancerous lesions on my scalp, gave me a script with directions for 2 months of treatment and made an appointment for me to see her in Oaxaca after I returned. $25 ...less than my Co-Pay.
          I exited to find a taxi and ran into two Mormons on a 2 year Mission from Salt Lake...is there no place I can go without running into these people trying to indoctrinate the world with their beliefs.  I got a taxi and was at The Pub by 8 pm and started drinking on an empty stomach while buying everyone a drink before I staggered home and to bed.

Tom and Mike

Paul and Brina

    Brina did feed me some of her recently made Irish Stew that was excellent. 

         Cesar worked his day off fixing my computer and returned the next day with my computer back on track.  I was elated, tipped him $50, and spent the day editing my photos and up dating my emails. I should mention, all Zipolete photos are taken with my phone NOT my camera.  Certain evening or motion shots I wished I had my Canon Mark IV but did my best.  Now it was getting dark and I made a careless mistake and froze the computer again!  I ran down to the bar, computer in hand BUT Cesar had returned home for the day.  The waiter called and he said he would come in a little earlier the next day and fix it.
       Being a man of his word, he showed up fixed the computer and explained how to use the keyboard shortcuts to do it myself next time.  He also called my taxi to pick me up the day of departure. Thank you Thank you Thank you.
       Most of my time here I've spent reading and trying to stay cool.  A few walks on the beach and back and forth in Zipolete to mix it up with the locals.  You want some Marijuana? No thanks I have my own.  Cocaine? Meth? whatever.  It is fairly easy to get some drugs here and can be smelled all around wherever you go.  Most go to the beach to smoke a joint. These guys are no one you would trust for anything and I caution new arrivals to steer clear.

    The Pub, a bar my friend Ron Williams opened and ran for 2 1/2 years before just folding it and moving his family to Pueblo to be near his father.  He had a "partner" , Paul Chapman from Cnty Mayo in Ireland, who with the help of Brina his bartender/chef assistant from Galloway Bay Ireland, run the place 6 days a week from 5-6 pm to 5-6 am some days, 6 days a week.  They cater to locals and do a good business, especially when there is a Football NFL or a Football Soccer game.
     I made a few new friends there, Micheal, an Aussie who worked for the government and traveled the world (covert ops I suspect) and Thomas, a world hitchhiker traveler who left his twin brother, and family at there home outside of Portland and is making his way around the world with his backpack and hammock. He leaves today for Peru.
    The top local restaurants are getting to know me also.  Providence's owner Xavier will sit with me a bit.  He and his Chef partner run this, the best eating establishment in Zipolete.  It was started 13 years ago by Xavier's family and closes in the hot May and June months when he and his partner travel.  Last year was to be NY until Trump trashed the Mexicans so they headed for Montreal instead.  My last visit I overheard a nearby couple mention "near Toronto" so I inquired to find they live in Peterborough Ontario and are visiting Oaxaca for a week.  They joined me for after dinner drinks and chat. We hope to meet up when I return to Oaxaca City and they connect with their parents there.

Beet Tower Was very Good

Seafood with Cous Cous and Tamarind Sauce

     El Alquimista is another restaurant/resort in a Cove just down the beach from where I'm staying.  The location is beautiful and a favorite of mine for Appetizers at Happy Hour.

I returned for Breakfast but any place that serves HOT DOG as "sausage (there are many in Mexico) with eggs is off my list. I gave it to the dog.

  I did go back one evening to try their Pizza but that was only fair and I returned to the Pub with half for the bar customers to share.

      The food at Nude Hotel is overpriced and not always good so I seldom eat here ....or any hotel I stay at except for convenience.  Most Hotel food is overpriced for their captive audience so I prefer to seek out Independently run local establishments that locals, not yelp, Facebook, or google search recommend. Zagat's used to be great before the computer.  My restaurant was rated a 4 star with great reviews...but we were.    They only posted what customers said, but  with the advent of "fake news", like/no like, etc, none of that is to be trusted.
       The internet in the last 8 years has gone down as a reliable source of information, especially in the USA!  There is more privacy and integrity in Europe with stricter laws that we need to enact and enforce before I start using the internet as a reliable source of information. I still listen to music, read my Kindle books, purchase some things, and exchange emails with my world contacts and family.
        Orale is a Breakfast Lunch place in a Garden setting.  It is run and patronized by the French that come to Zipolete because they are Naturists and this is thee place in Mexico.  The Breakfasts and the Lunches are reasonable and Good.

      Yesterday The Pub was closed so I did a two for one cocktail at a local beach front hotel.  I asked that my waitress put the two into one to cut the sugar mixer and taste the Gin.  She did but just served both in a giant glass. I realized it was my fault so thought it out in my mind before asking again.  This time I said it correctly and she understood.
        I was going to eat the Fresh made Pasta there.  Nice selection but had to wait until the kitchen opened for dinner so went down to my Hotel instead. The couple nearby asked me about Oaxaca (they saw my hat). I gave them the run down on my experience in the last few years.  They were from Arlington Mass on a ONE WEEK vacation to this beach area.  I suspect a special travel deal there.  I told them I lived in Mass for 5 years and bought my first house in 1973 in Manomet on the South Shore.  They were just there looking at property on the ocean with a view.  Wanted a summer getaway. I told then my home cost $45,000.  The one they looked at with spectacular views was more like a Million and was a wreck.  They would have to tear it down and build a new one. They were spending the last days of there vacation at Huatuclo, about 30 miles from here and fly to Mexico City then direct flight to Boston.

    Cesar was waiting on tables when I arrived and decided to TRY the pasta with clams and shrimp.
They were mussels and head on in the shell medium shrimp in a greasy amalgam of garlic and margarine. There were about 4 of each on a huge bed of Spaghetti.  I ate because I was hungry then returned to play on the computer.  This time I froze it up, I fixed it myself with Cesar's prior instructions.
       My room fan took a dump this morning and I traded the cheap Walmart piece of junk into the front desk for another of the same. Orale, my favorite Breakfast place here, was closed today so I went to the nice lady up the street and again had Bacon and Eggs, Juice and coffee with a salad.
    I stopped by my "kind lady's" Pharmacia to get my refund for the creme she got for me.  I asked for two but the price was more than she quoted so only had the money for one.  I got back $30...the Creme is $50 and I hesitate to start this after reading about the treatment and side effects. Hopefully, I will be all done by my return to Arizona.  I might need someone to apply it every day two hours before bedtime for 60 days.  Maybe Adelina will...I will pay her after I get instructions and see the lesions.  It is on my head so have to take a photo to see it.  Well tomorrow is my last day and though I dread the trip, I am looking forward to getting back and settled in.  Sandra can probably start my treatment and show Adelina how to finish it?  I hope.