CHRISTMAS EVE AND DAY

           The day before Christmas, I was having my coffee when I heard a knock on my door.  The maid wanted to clean...I was still in my underwear, no shower, etc.  It didn't occur to me that she would be working that day. After a quick shower, I was out the door.  I walked into town and stopped for breakfast at Cafe Ciela then stopped at the information booth to find out about Christmas eve activities.  I was told the processions from the different churches to the Zocalo started around 6 pm and ended around 8 pm.

HOP ON DAVID

 

    I returned home, waited until around 5:30 then returned for the processions.  It was very quiet and now the Zocalo was rid of the Radish displays and tables it seemed empty.

     Walking up to the Santa Domingo Basilica to see what was going on, I encountered a small procession heading for the Zocalo.

That was it?  I didn't feel like waiting around until 8 pm hoping to see some religious statues being carried around with a band behind.  On the way home I noticed a large flatbed truck pass going toward the center with decorations like a Rose Parade Float??  There was no one on it but I wasn't going to go all the way back based on a supposition so went home.
    I did note the fireworks going off all night sounded like an attack...but I knew the difference.  Just like the night before the TET Offensive in Saigon...except they were real bombs.

CHRISTMAS DAY

           I heard about Verde's Requiem Mass being played and sung in the churches so decided to attend Mass at the Santa Domingo.

CHRISTMAS AT THE BASCILICA

The streets were empty when I left at 10:30.  There were hardly any buses and I walked to the church, only to find it 1/3 full.  I guess the  big deal was Midnight Mass?
      Chuck, my retired lawyer friend from Louisiana, was passing the hat in a very dapper suit and tie.  I had to look twice to make sure it was he. When Mass let out, we walked out together and he explained the big deal was last night.  The processions were like a Mardi Gras parade filmed by Fellini.  The Zocalo was packed and everyone was singing, dancing, eating, drinking and having a big party...without me.
       Well I put it on the calendar for next year and stopped at the Zocalo and had breakfast with Darcy who was just finishing his. Some Mormon singers were Christmas Caroling and recruiting new converts.

He invited me to join him at his sister's house for an all day Christmas Party with drinks and food.  I declined and opted for a quiet day at home.

ANOTHER APARTMENT...FINALLY THE RADISH FESTIVAL

MONDAY
Javier had been waiting for his tenant to move out to a two bedroom not far from here, so he could show it to me.  Monday I walked over and met him at the address and liked it BUT only two very large windows which gave lots of light but when it gets hot, there would be no cross ventilation to cool down with a fan...and the bathroom was down the hall from my bedroom.

 I liked the kitchen and living room and as he was giving me a ride home I told him to keep me in mind for anything down the road.  He worked in an office, his wife was a school teacher and father in law born and living in Oaxaca all his life.  He spoke very good English too. Passed an Egg Store...only sells EGGS!

MEXICO CONSUMES MORE EGGS THAN ANY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD

      He dropped me not far from the library and I contributed to the orphanage and bought Luis a new pair of shoes...then returned home.

  TUESDAY
The big day...The opening of the festival isn't until around 5 pm when the Prize winners are chosen and the world shows up.  I met a young lady this afternoon that came here from Chicago with her husband for the first time...JUST to see the Radish Festival.  This is a big event.  She told me they were setting up the displays while many were finishing there creations and being judged while they worked at the Zocalo.
     While walked to the Zocalo I stopped in Labasita Square to photo an Art a Thon.

GRANDMA MOSES?

     I went down to see how they were setting this huge event up in anticipation of thousands of people that walk around the perimeter of the park on a ramp looking down at the displays while the creators spray water on them and make adjustment.  The judging and awards are over at that point and the winners are being interviewed by news crews.

I took some photos and bought some Rotisserie Chicken for Christmas  and returned home.

     There was a concert with the TUNA (Historical Groups of Tunas...troubadours that formed to entertain for money in order to pay for the University.) It is like a fraternity and many stay with the group until they die. The Tunas come from different areas of the world but most if not all are Latin.  It originated at Salamanca University in Spain. This Tuna group toured 17 different countries throughout Europe.  Each patch on their Tunic..Cape is a country they played at or a University       .TUNA
       My goal was to attend the 6 pm concert then take pictures at the Radish Festival but not to stand in line and walk the ramp.  I had to walk by on my way to Santa Domingo for the concert.  The crowds were enormous.  The traffic was gridlocked and police were everywhere.  They surrounded the ramp with a barricade to keep it organized.  There was no charge but only so many were allowed on the ramp...so there was one entrance and one exit after you did the perimeter of the park.
      I  past the zocalo and was half way to the Santa Domingo when a TUNA came down from there and passed me going to the Zocalo...whoa...excuse me TUNA aren't you going the wrong direction.

         Christopher, informed me that I was going the wrong direction and they were playing at the other Church just along side of the Zocalo in 10 minutes.  We walked back together and exchanged info...he lives and was born in Oaxaca.  He has two children and he traveled the world with the Oaxacan TUNA he belonged to.  His parents live in La Jolla California and he has been to San Diego many times visiting them.
      I stayed for the beginning of the concert and a choir doing Christmas songs that I didn't recognized but everyone in the audience was singing along. The TUNA are an entertainers and interact with each other as well as the audience.The Tuna
TUNA too          Tuna has a CHOIR    and Christopher sings too   

     I tried to get photos of the serpentine lines and winded out to the street and back 10 times...it was just a mass of people standing for hours and hours to get to the entrance.

 Security would wait until the ramp was clear enough and then let 20 people at a time on to it. The Governor of Oaxaca showed up with his wife and were getting the VIP treatment with 15-20 Secret Service with earphones and looking like robots...looking...looking.

 The police were stationed every 6 feet along the entire barricade.  Riot gear with everyone in bullet proof vests and packing pistols to automatic weapons.  SPA Special Police Agents also were working with the Secret Service and were all around the Governor.  I tried to get close when he was shaking hands and doing photo opts with children on the ramp, but could not get a look or a photo.  He caused the line to slow but wasn't going to miss the publicity...he did the whole show!

     I was exhausted so sat in the Cafe with some wine , Serrano ham from Spain, and Melon while watching the world go by.

Winter Wonderland

 I slept well that night....others didn't....      Missing 43       y  Determination?    

RADISH FESTIVAL...STARTED IN 1897

       Night of the Radishes   Read all about it.  I went looking for some Radishes but NADA?  
        I decided to have lunch at Quenque...good cooks and a great BBQ Pork meal.

My friend Peter said the Radish Festival was always in the Zocalo but that had been occupied by Vendors, Protesting Teachers, and squatters since I arrived October 28th after the Missing 43 students.  Not anymore! I stopped to see. Most of the vendors are being removed...only the Protesting Teachers seem to still be there in Sierra Trail tents...all the same model..must of got a good price on them.  Now I can visit the Zocalo and enjoy the park as it was meant to be.  As for the Radishes...I'll keep you posted.

Sunday there was a weekly get together at   Casa Colonial   , a long running B&B now being run by Jane Robison after her husband died in an automobile accident.  This was my first time attending the event.  Dr Z, who plays in the band and is my doctor, invited me two or three times but I thought it was North of the city so didn't bother.  It was close to the Zocalo so it was easy for me to catch the bus to within four blocks and walk.

I arrived just as the band was setting up, so ordered a wine from the bar and sat with Richard the Domino player.  There was about 50 people in attendance and some of the guests at the B&B joined us.  Nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

DOCTOR Z ON THE DRUMS...ER...BOX?

Took a photo tour during the break ...

BREAK FOR A JOINT

BIG BIRD .....OF PARADISE

 I had a Charcoal Grilled Mexican Hamburgesa then Richard and I decided to split a Pizza at the Tres Bistro.  We could find out what was going on with the Zocalo and the Radish Festival too. There was a huge neighborhood Festival going on at the Solidad Church after we left the party.
      Prices at one of EX favorites, Tres Bistro, went up....last meal there.  The Zocalo was cleaned up except for the Tents and Protesting school teacher and the tables were being set up to surround the park for the Radish Festival displays.  We split and each returned home.  If you want to hear the band:

THE BAND

The Band