GOOD FRIDAY...SATURDAY...EASTER

       Streets of Oaxaca were quiet after the processions and earthquake.  Business was starting to pick up at the Zocalo when I arrived.

 I set up my computer inside of El Importanado and ordered the Americano Breakfast.  It was crap...and their advertised Wi-Fi kept going in and out.  I left for Black Coffee...a nice Air Conditioned (yes...first I'd experienced...too cold) artsy Cafe.  

     I wandered around the afternoon and took some photos as the churches were setting up for the evening processions.

 A mysterious man gave me a fortune:  I will have one day of unexpected joys and sharing with your love ones!  Sounds good. I didn't stick around and walked home. 

                  Thunder and Lightening were threatening a rain that never came.  My next door neighbor said Hello from her balcony...we agreed it was a good Good Friday and she returned to entertaining her guest...a Black man.  Don't see many in Mexico.  I suspect he has been staying with her.  I went to bed early.
     ASO Cafe was opened this morning.  That is the place I had a reservation for a Studio and cancelled.  She has 3 one bedrooms that are booked next year. I had such a nice breakfast and their Wi-Fi is like lighting that I almost asked her to  put on the list for cancellations.

      I walked into the center enjoying the cool breeze and stopped at a cafe for some fresh OJ .  Mid Afternoon I walked up to Biznaga but they were packed again so returned to the Zocalo after spending some time on a public computer printing out my itinerary for the next two weeks.  It is an evil necessity to accomplish all my appointments and tasks required upon returning to the states. Jump start the car being number one.
    I returned to El Importanado. Cheap good wine and fair food for a tourist trap. They are friendly and give good service.  I read another story in my book. I think I'm going to finish it before I check out of here on Tues. Amazing true stories about Mexico. I had the Pasta Alfredo while waiting for the Tuna that was advertised for 7 pm.  It was 7:30 when I paid the bill and left...only to discover they were on "stage" in front of the Zocalo and I had been expecting them touring around.  

I took some photos, enjoyed the music, then got my fortune told again: 

 "Your open mind will make you feel a special interest today for the unknown,  You'll want to go for no known or discovered worlds and achieve greater personal well-being. Your relationships will be outgoing and  able to establish new friendships and to work together." 

           I then took a taxi back. Easter Sunday Manana...Rejoice.

MY LUNCH WITH KAY......LUNCHES

      Kay and I agreed to another of our luncheon outings today.  I would be gone shortly and having been sick last week , we never did see each other.  It was a beautiful day...as usual, when I arrived at her apartment for our appointment.  
      We walked to Danzante...one of the most upscale restaurants in

Oaxaca...expecting a really nice meal.  The restaurant, along with most during this busy Easter time, was not offering Comida just a la carte from the menu.  Kay started with a "Fondue" in a Rustic Bread Roll.   I got one too but don't remember ordering it so refused it.  Good thing as it was chunks of maybe Swiss cheese in a Mushroom puree that looked like re fried beans .  All served luke warm in an oversized hollowed out Roll.  She never finished it.  I offered her some of my main course of Ancho Chili stuffed with  grasshoppers, and something else which made it bearable but not filling or exceptional.  She suggested we go to Biznaga and have a real meal.  I finished my custard dessert with

figs and chocolate, took the last swig of a glass of Cabernet, paid the bill and we were in line at Biznaga...30 minute wait.              This was Holy Thursday when people are out visiting 7 Churches or temples.   This is a custom from Roman times and brings everyone out on the street going from church to church...and eating in between.  
         I suggested a restaurant next door, Zignaya, that neither of us had been and had great reviews.  That also had a line out the door.  Kay said she always enjoyed the Hamberguesas at the Camino Del Real Hotel at $14 each but well worth it?

 I was full but joined her for an Neive Sorbet and another glass of wine.  I didn't see the hamburg as special but she polished it right off with gusto.
       She meets with friends on Thursdays around 5 pm for coffee at a nice place near the Opera.  I joined her and recognized Bruce and met John for the first time.  John had been around Central America for a number of years and Oaxaca for the last year.  He was from a suburb outside of Toronto, well educated and interesting to talk to, as was Bruce.  

      The morning of Good Friday had processions all over town at the different churches.  I overslept and was awaken by singing in the local procession just outside my compound.  I was on the computer around 9:30 when the 7.2 Mexico City earthquake struck and moved my building.  Well it swayed for about 15 seconds. Great way to start Good Friday.  The maid shooed me out the door an hour later but all processions were done and the streets were quiet.

GRANDE LUNA

     I was determined to end this suffering sore throat.  Mag was still closed this morning.  I believe he is one of many that shutter their doors during Holy Week.  The lavenderia wasn't, thank goodness.  I dropped off the last of my laundry and headed for Llano park to get my News.  Hector was also closed for Holy Week so I headed for the "free" Doctor Adrianna at the Ahorra Farmacia. 
        Many Farmacias have doctors free of charge and you buy your drugs at that Farmacia.  Adrianna had me on her computer when in July of last year I lost an ear bud in my ear...don't ask...but it was painful.  She could only refer me to the hospital after confirming such a stupid act.  The Reforma Hospital had the tools to extract it without damaging the eardrum...like it could be any worse than it is. This time around she diagnosed an infection and gave me "antibiotics" again...with a decongestant and ibuprofen.  I filled the combo antibiotic/decongestant capsules and took one. Called Mucocef for respiratory infections. Wish I had started last week but feel better already.

      I arrived at the library early and took advantage of their Internet provider to upload my photos to the clouds and play a game of poker while waiting.
           Jan, a wonderful retired Sociology Professor from U of Chicago and in her 80's showed up.  I hadn't seen her since I took a collectivo with her to a Village to visit a young girl she was Mentoring and sending to U of Chicago on a scholarship at only 16 years of age.  She introduced me to the family and the girl after we had lunch. She was trying to sell me her home there.  She already build another home and had this one rented but the renters left so she wanted to let it go. I thought it nice but too remote for me.

     Then another long time resident of Oaxaca arrived.  I heard she was from North Carolina that divorced well and had a couple homes in Oaxaca with a Condo on Storrow Drive in Boston overlooking Cambridge and the Charles River.  She would call the Ritz and have dinner delivered.  Very friendly , polite and enjoys a drink. She recognized me and did say hello. 

     I left and went to treat myself at a really upscale restaurant.  I hadn't had breakfast or lunch so thought a Comida was in order.

 I sat overlooking the Zocalo but no Comida's were served at this place...full menu only.  I had a tasty but not the best French Onion Soup then a Basque dish of Bacala..Salt Cod that was supposed to have the salt soaked out of it...It didn't.

 Very salty.  I ate what I could and $40 later left never to recommend it.   
     When I returned home, I discovered the electric was off.  I reported it to the Tere and left to pick up some water and yogurt at the Chedraui supermarket.  The electric company had their truck outside the front gate when I left so assumed I would have electric when I returned.  The truck was gone, the lights at the entrance came on when I hit the switch...but no electric at my unit.  I was told the truck was on it's way.  I said it was there but left.

 There is no bell at the door so unless you have a key, you can't get in. 
             I couldn't get on the Internet so left and went to visit Kay.  She was out so I headed for Biznaga when a car pulled up and a lady asked if I was looking for Katherine?  She said she saw me come out of the building and looking around.  I explained I was looking for Kay.  I think she was German but then drove off...I continued to Biznaga.

 On the way I noticed another demonstration of protesters.  I thought it might be the ones I saw earlier so took some photos then saw tents up the street.  Turned out the tents were Oaxacan Crafts for sale from all over the state.  I decided to browse them when I came to the carvers of St Martin.  I mentioned the famous Manuel Jimenenz.  The man said he was Manual Jimenenz.  I got out my book and showed him the story of him and how he changed the culture of San Martin.  He introduced me to his wife and daughter.  They paint his carvings.  I didn't want any but then thought twice when I saw a series of Cat Carvings.

 Chris has two cats so I thought it a perfect gift for her and bought one.  He then told me he was Fernando Lopez not Jimenez.  I took some photos and we parted friends.  It was a joy to meet a family so personable, likable, gentle, giving, and TALENTED. Got to visit San Martin.
       Biznaga was doing a brisk business when I arrived.  I wasn't really hungry, just wasting time until the electric was turned on.  I had a Sangria, a Wine, Melon Port Soup, and an Apple Tart with Chocolate Walnut Ice Cream and left.

  

       I was just leaving the Zocalo when a light rain started.  No one paid any attention.  We haven't had any rain..it was just a teaser.  Well it did rain.  Not a lot but great thunder and lightening with moisture taking the dust out of the air...and the smell of rain.  The is the hot month but it has only been hot for two week and then only in the afternoon. The warm breeze turned to cool wind.  I opened the doors when I arrived and within 30 minutes it was chilly and I closed up the place for the evening.  The electric was on.
      This   morning was perfect like yesterday...Spring fragrance of beautiful blooming flowers, Orchids, Birds of Paridise, Vibrant Reds, Orange, and Yellows. The right temperature with a slight breeze of fresh air. 

OUR LADY OF SORROWS & START OF HOLY WEEK

        The concert I attended was a group of gifted students that had been selected for their ability in the Performing Arts.

 Peter from the library was there so I sat with him.  One row up was the lady that invited me, tears in her eyes as she and her husband watched their daughter sing with the group.  She invited me to another performance the next night across the street at one of the many Cathedrals.  Her daughter came up to me after to thanks me for coming and also invite me.  Peter and I went to the Zocalo to chat before heading home.  

     Sabado I woke after 13 hours sleep feeling much better.  I finally decided to go get something to eat.  A walk around the Zocalo with a visit to the Cathedral to see "Maria" sing and I ended up at the El Sante Fe where Fernando greeted me warmly...especially when I ordered the NY Strip Steak rare. 
        Thinking he had a broiler or gas grill I explained just one minute on both sides. He did and I had to send it back.  I realized with no "score marks" he was cooking on a griddle or flat top  Second time was perfect and it was a good 14 oz steak.  My stomach wasn't used to having to digest all that protein and my energy level went down so I went home.

    Domingo I woke still clogged up with a stuffed up , bleeding , running nose. It had been a week now so decided to go see Dr Z tomorrow if it continued.  72% outside and sunny...I need to shower and get out for a long walk.  

     I spent the afternoon lounging around the Zocalo and in my Cafe with the Lady of Sorrows shrine before taking a taxi home.  When I arrived the driver didn't have change for a 50 Peso bill...the fare was 40 Pesos (normally 35).  When I told him I didn't have change, as the bus behind us was beeping his horn, he said neither did he.  I finally fumbled around and pulled out my wallet and found two twenty peso bills as the bus horn increased its frequency so my blood pressure kept rising along with my anger.  It is so frustrating that no one ever has change....at least for a gringo! 

      When I came in the gate, my landlady was there.  I explained again that I had some things for Yagul but there was a lady there for two months.  Perhaps she could ask the lady if she wanted to utilize these chairs and cushions, etc.  She said she would store them for me so I guess I wait until the last day to pack and store the balance of my belongings.  She has been nice about all of it.  Then she said she didn't have a barking dog...just one old one that she never lets out...BUT now she does have a little barking poodle that yaps.  I'm glad my space is at the end of the compound.  I think I'm starting to get stressed with only a week left before departure and me still fighting this sore throat.  Tomorrow I have to call the Veterans Hospital to reschedule an appointment they set for me for next Monday. The day before my departure.

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        Well after an hour and a half as the 17th caller in line then disconnected at number 5 and three other similar tries, I gave up.  I did get to leave a message.  I went for breakfast at Mag's but he was closed so the facade could be painted. I felt better so didn't visit the Doctor and instead picked up some Alka Seltzer.  I had breakfast at Marco Polo...big Mexican breakfast...too much. I arrived at the library with my computer for Bill to look at.  He had it up and running in 5 minutes.  Kay stopped by and we chatted a bit but I returned home instead of having coffee. It was hot and I didn't get much sleep.  When the bus came to my stop I moved one foot forward the the other just slipped right off the step and I was in the street. It was like I fell through a trap door and I still don't know how it happened.  Thank God I had a hold of the rail.  I slept two hours as soon as I walked in the door.  I checked the time when I got up and called the VA.  I got my appointment rescheduled with no problem.

Los Mariposas Closed Holy Week

       I took the bus into town and headed for the Sante Fe again.  Lovely dinner then taxi home again.  The area was packed with people having fun.