SABADO

        Sabado is Fin.  What a day. If I don't stay up and put something down, I lose track.  God is paying back for all those hours of being a couch potato.  Now I am not allowed to waste time.  It is great.  I haven't been this immersed in life since I was a child.  You can't sit still here.

          When I lived in Yartareni, in the country...some days I wouldn't come to town or the days I did, I always had my evenings on the terrace to watch the sunset and rise.  Living in Oaxaca I seldom have time to play a game of Sudoku or read or watch a movie or sit. I don't have to do anything until 4 pm tomorrow...yay!..but it's almost midnight...I may sleep until then.

     First I have to recount the day... This morning a had my fruit and yogurt with coffee.  I dug out my storage boxes to find my Q tips and my Motrin.  I posted my review of the neighborhood restaurant in the Oasis in Oaxaca to help my friend build his business next door.
       I hopped a bus to Conzetti Park this morning for a Flea Market.  I arrived early so had the Cuba Tortas Especial at the corner stand....best Tortas in Mexico. $3 and a bottle of water. It was hot. The flea market was setting up.  I almost bought the Beatles vinyl Abbey Road album in mint condition but realized I no longer have a record player. Cacti I would have bought for my place if I was going to be here more than three more weeks. The heat was killing me and so were my legs.

      I hopped another bus to Kay's place to ask if it was OK if we didn't go to Biznaga for late lunch as planned.  She greeted me and informed me that she had seen Halina this morning and invited her to join us and she would be arriving at 1 pm...10 minutes.  We agreed to go back to Santa Fe for Comida instead.  Closer, cheaper and Harina hadn't been there. She arrived on time and we chatted for an hour.

            I was energized now so we took our time and eventually ended up getting a warm welcome from Fernando at the door.  We all agreed on the same entree and were promptly served a great Sangria with chopped apples, pears, and peaches .  We all agreed it was a good choice with our meal...which turned out to be fabulous...and all for $5.60.
       We dropped Kay off at her door and Halina invited me to see her place. When we approached her neighborhood she noticed an open door with three older gentlemen sitting on buckets in a garage drinking homemade Mescal out of the bottle and singing songs while one played the guitar.  They saw her and invited us in to join them...we did.

We all introduced ourselves. Jorge,Sergio, and Fernando...the Tres Amigos.  A few Mescal's later they sang a song for us then we thanked them and I went next door to see Halina's beautiful courtyard and roof top terrace with a view.  She introduced me to a young lady from Switzerland that lived in the room next to hers then showed me her studio which was spacious and attractive...and CHEAP.  She will return there next year so we will still be neighbors.

      I got back just in time to take a quick nap.  Then a wind storm came and the temperature dropped so it was cool enough to change into long pants and long sleeve shirt and out the door to catch a bus.  I arrived at our designated meeting place in the Opera House coffee shop.  Kay was waiting as Halina and I showed at the same time.

         We left shortly for an Art opening at the Governor's Mansion...the Zocalo was packed!  There was a stage set up but no one playing so we went to the Art opening where they were serving Orange flavored homemade Mescal and Mescal punch.  Kay doesn't drink but Halina and I jumped in line after visiting to exhibits.
        We left shortly and decided to sit near the stage so we could hear the music that was just beginning.  These were Oaxacan Tuna's, part of a world organization of Spanish Minstrels that date back to the Medieval times. A waiter invited us to the fancy Tres Bistro upstairs where we could view the whole affair from a window seat near the balcony.  We accepted and I ordered another Pizza for the third evening in a row...with some wine of course.

 The staff was great. Harina had a beer and Kay had her usual water.  We shared the Pizza and complimentary Fresh cooked Sweet Potatoes Chips while listening to the music and chatting.  When we were leaving, Kay noticed a Bread display and asked the Chef and Manager that were saying goodbye if she couldn't 't buy a loaf to take home...she did and we left.
         The Tuna were off the stage and in the crowd.  I went over and chatted with them before we turned to a Latin band that was entertaining the crowd.  A group in front of us turned out to be Polish tourists on a two week holiday from Krakow where Halina is from.  We all introduced ourselves and she volunteered to show them around.  They accepted and Kay and I left with the agreement we would all meet Domingo at 4 pm at Kay's home and Halina would treat us as her going away present.

         I stopped at a stand after dropping Kay off to sample some of the gelatin products I see everyday.  I discovered it was as I thought...Jello.  It is a big deal here but not for me. I arrived at my gate just before midnight...exhausted.

HOT TIRED LAZY

    Oaxaca is warming up.  We have a few cool afternoons with clouds and then intense sun and hot.  I've taken to hiding in my room during the afternoon. Siesta is nice and then out in the cooler evening and up late reading travel stories about Mexico or watching The Endangered Civilization Series.  The problem is I don't wake early like before so I miss the cool mornings.  Oh well.  I have another lecture tonite at the library but will NOT eat out.  I have two leftover Pizza's in the refrigerator that need attention.   
     The lecture, was a Video "Take Back Your Power" ...an awesome documentary about the control and manipulation of world energy by six of the top corporations in the world...all oil, gas, and energy related...and all done with the complicity of polititians throughout the world with the use of Smart Meters and Wi-Fi Radio Frequency Microwave Radiation.  See the trailer: 

Take Back your Power

Why work out when you could be with me?

       I  sat    with Susan Lyons, the lady lecturer from the night before.  After, I walked to the Zocalo for a glass of wine, music , and cup of corn then the taxi home.  Great night.
    Finally I awoke at Dawn, walked to Cafe Azul I had wanted to try.

 It was very nice kind of hippie place with Free Tibet signs Mate and Chai Tea, Hummus, Strudel, Huevos Rancharos, etc.   I had the Latte and Strudel...excellent. 
      I walked through the Zocalo over to my Internet place and printed a review with photos of Mag's place to post at the library and at my Oasis in Oaxaca.  
     I visited the library and posted my review while chatting with Bill Pumphreys from Winter Texas...third generation.  He showed me his book Life is a Roller Coaster and what a Ride.  I'm going to read it.  He is an excellent person and storytellers. Peace Corp in Tanzania after graduating from U of Texas then on to inner city all black school in Philly at the time Martin Luther King was shot...worked for Cisco and traveled over the world. Now a full time resident of Oaxaca.  

      I bought a shirt at the Llano Park Friday Market and took the packed bus to Mag's place for Comida then Siesta.  I woke and returned to the library in time for a movie.
      It was Nebraska, done in Black and White starring Bruce Dern and Stacy Keach.  Great story and good acting.  Kay was there so we decided to try someplace different but first she asked me to push Gloria home in her wheelchair.  It was a short push but scary...crossing street in busy Friday night traffic and going up and down curbs.  Gloria invited me in for wine.  Kay and I declined but what a beautiful place.  It was all ART.  She had her own Art Gallery and half of it was there. Kay and I ended up at the Azul Hotel...very upscale

restaurant where she had the Tlayuda and I had the Chicken Breast Stuffed with Shrimp and Cheese topped with Tamirindo Sauce and a side of Fresh Saute Mushrooms with Parmasan.  We split a Carrot Cake with Orange Cotton Candy and Fruit...all of it was excellent.  We decided to go to a Happy Hour on the roof some evening for Mescalini's.  Great day.

LIFE IN OAXACA

          I had breakfast at Mag's place again.  He had to rush out and offered to put the HD 60" TV on English for me.   I hadn't watched TV, except for an occasional local Phoenix newscast on the internet, since I left Scottsdale.  I declined and read my paper with my coffee then left for the library. 

        Tere got me some towels this morning so I was going to return Kay's I borrowed but she wasn't there.  I walked over to her place, returned the towel and invited her to join be for lunch at the Sante Fe.  We walked over, had a great lunch then I returned for a 3-5 pm Siesta.

        It is hot between 2-5 pm this time of year and no A/C in most of Oaxaca.  I showered when I awoke then took the bus to the Zocalo . I noticed about 10-20 % of the riders would bless themselves everytime we passed a church.  I remembered doing that when I was 10 but lost interest shortly thereafter.  It was comical to see them all at once bless themselves.  You have to imagine we passed about 5 churches on the way.   I expected bells to ring and the bus driver to give a sermon.

        I wandered around taking in the large amount of families with children, couples , all out enjoying the cool evening.   Then I treated myself to a big juicy hamberguesa on the street.  All for $2 and delicious.  I walked back home after dark.  Most businesses were open on Monday evening and the streets were bustling.

It is totally different at night.  My neighbor was not out on the balcony but a new one moved in below me. I wanted to get one poker game in before bedtime.
        While visiting the library Tuesday I came across Halina, the Polish lady with one week before returning to Michigan and not happy about it.  She wanted to see my new place and on the way out we ran into Kay who agreed to meet us for Comida at Mag's M & M Cafe in La Noria.  We would all go visit my place after. 
       Halina and I took the bus as it was so hot.  She had never ridden the bus in Oaxaca and typical of me, I got on the wrong bus so we still had to walk a bit before arriving at Mag's around 2:30. 
         When 3 rolled around we decided not to wait any longer and ordered our food.  It was fantastic as usual and all for 35 Pesos.

 
After showing her my place we walked over to Aso Villas nearby to show Halina their new Cafe.  She lived there last year and knew the neighborhood well.

 There was Kay wandering around in circles.  She had been walking for 2 hours and was determined to find us.  I gave her my map and explained but she appeared to be dehydrated and disoriented.  We stopped at the Aso Cafe so she could get some liquid and food in her.  We all went our separate ways.  
      The weather had cooled down and it was nice so I read a little instead of a Siesta then around 7 I went to an Italian place Mag had recommended for Pizza.  The Viejo Libre was attractive and gave professional service.  Two glasses of wine and a 1/2 Pizza later, I took a taxi home.

      Wednsday I shopped a bit and went to Mag's again for Comida. Shoshona was there chatting with Mag so I invited her to join me.  She is a pleasant young Jewish girl from Chicago whose brother just joined the Israel Army.  She leaves the end of this month to return.  She came here  after losing her job a Trader Joe's.  She had moved and had to ride her bike in the snow, board a bus and return the same way.  She loved working for them but when she was forced to move, they couldn't transfer her to the store near her and eventually she quit, packed it up and arrived in Oaxaca quite by accident.  We had a great lunch and I told Mag about my Pizza experience with the place he recommended and I concurred.  Very good. 
         

  I walked back to Oasis with Shoshona and she showed me her cubby hole next to Tere's place.   After a Siesta I took the bus to the library for my lecture by Susan Lyon's from Jamacia Plain Boston.  She was a world traveler and did a great job talking about Simplifying your life.  She did a powerpoint presentation, engaged the audience and for $4 gave us 1 1/2 hours of entertainment.  It was inspiring.

         Kay had given me a 5 CD collection of the Endangered Civilizations she had taken out of the library.  I renewed them in my name after the lecture on getting rid of the clutter in your life, I invited Kay to join me for dinner.  We were going to a Cafe then a Documentary movie called The Act of Killing but changed our minds when I discovered it was a ways away and we would have to rush our meal.  We returned to the Hotel Parador to split a Pizza.  The Chef made it from scratch and though tasty enough it really wasn't a Pizza.   
             

We took some home and I returned down deserted streets with police patrols driving around the area with their Red and Blue lights flashing to make their presence known.  Also a military armed patrol in a jeep  came through to insure the area was going to stay safe.  I had been approached twice on separate occassions for money by men saying they were Guatamalan's trying to excape to the US.  The first time I gave some change but the second I suspected a scam. I took a refreshing shower and retired.

THE MOVE

        I moved into my condo in San Augustine Yartareni June 2013 and started making plans for a garden on my terrace, improvement list to bring back from Arizona, etc.  I bought new pillows for the bed, cushions for the chairs, decorative vase with flowers, a clothing stand and a memory foam pillow top as well as a Microwave.  My cheery new home away from home.
     Alas the trips back and forth to Oaxaca,  shopping and lugging things home on the bus, going back and forth twice in a day sometimes, returning late at night in the dark, and the final straw...the dogs barking.  I even thought about buying a place that I could control somewhat, but in the end I'm moving.  I will see how my new place works out next year and already have alternative places if it doesn't.  During that time, the neighborhood has added a car wash, motel, a pedestrian bridge over the highway, an automobile repair shop, a recycling business, a copy shop, another bar, and all the businesses have expanded their hours.  I suspect this is all because of the new Walmart complex going up just down the road from the new disco.
      This was to be a leisurely day with no plans.  I dropped my last load of laundry off and hopped the bus into town.  

When I exited my normal stop next to the main ADO Bus station I noticed police, hooded protesters, more riot police, the ADO was surrounded by protester and had been spray painted.

 I stopped by the library to find out what it was about.  Seems the teachers are at it again and they've enlisted the aide of student protesters...last night they went on a rampage in town and spray painted some more but I didn't notice much except the bus station and really don't know what the issues are except for what the spray painted building tells me.   
      I had lunch at the Zocalo, listened to an accordion and bongo player, and ran into Zoey, a couchsurfer traveler from Salem Oregon that I previously contacted.

ONLY WALK IN THE SHADE

      I had emailed Zoey before I returned this winter.  I was browsing the Oaxacan CouchSurfers and recognized her from my stay during the summer.  I never met Zoey until today.  I had written and invited her for coffee when I returned but she was in Asia.  When she returned she emailed me for coffee but needed a couple weeks to readjust after her Asia trip. Her Profile said she liked the "Dead Can Dance" and I have all their albums.  Very unique and unusual band as is Zoey as a person...at least her manner of dress. She was meeting someone for lunch so we didn't talk much.  I did ask how she was adjusting to being back in Oaxaca?  She said it was like an out of body experience like a nice dream.  It feels good. 

       People that come here are drawn to stay by some unknown , unexplainable force. You can say the weather, the friendly people, the beauty, the food, the energy...the ghosts of civilizations that occupied the Americas 10's of thousands of years ago...are still here.  17 different languages, cultures, ...there is no putting it in words.
   I took the bus home entertained by a blind Harmonica player.  

    Today I dropped the last of my trash off and paid the Senora when a MotoTaxi pulled up so I jumped in with a huge bag of clothes for storage at Oasis in Oaxaca, paid the man as the bus pulled up and ran to catch it.  Just after I boarded, I realized I got on my usual bus...NOT the one that drops me at Oasis. Meanwhile a lady boarded selling Children's DVDs or cartoons to babysit your child by.

 I exited and caught the real bus to Oasis where Tere greeted me and showed me to the 2 bedroom apt so I could take some photos..then to the studio where I will be staying this month.

 I took some photos, paid the rent, got the keys and visited Manuel at his restaurant for breakfast. Coffee, fresh OJ, basket of bread with Scrambled eggs accompanied by beans and cheese.

Delicious. He joined me and we rambled on about our careers, his deportation the hospitality business, our love of poker and blackjack before he had to return to work.  I gained even more respect for him, his professionalism, attitude and talent. We will see more of each other and play poker soon. 
       I visited the Zocalo and noted a large crowd.  I was surprised to see a man with assorted herbs, plants, and vegetables.  He was explaining the medicinal use of each one while demonstrating how to prepare it for the use. Striping an Aloe to get the gel, etc. He sold a print out of them and their properties.  It was in Spanish so I passed.  On the return bus trip was a lady selling top one million hits all on one CD.
     I packed all day Saturday and sorted...take home vs leave for November.

 Sunday I rose and brought everything, boxes, suitcases, microwave, pillows, clothes, memory foam mattress etc down the stairs to the landing and went to the buffet restaurant where I told the guard I needed a taxi to move it all to Oaxaca.  The cook came over to me and explained he worked four years in the US and learned to cook and speak English in a restaurant.

 My kinda guy.  I told him I would pay the driver 400 peso to help load, deliver and unload my belongings.  When I finished it was a short wait before the driver arrived.  In Spanish he said what I thought to be 500 pesos.  I was planning on giving the guy a big 100 peso tip anyway so hopped in and we went to Villa Antiqua to pick everything up.  The taxi driver loaded and reloaded until the taxi was full with me sitting in the front with a Microwave in my lap and a coat rack.  He asked for the key to lock up but I couldn't get it out of my pocket and told him to forget it.   I couldn't move but was so happy to do this in one trip...half way there I realized I had left my hat and my computer upstairs.  I thought he was going the wrong way because it wasn't the way I showed him.  I said you have to turn...he looked at me and said...your Casa...and pointed .  I was amazed...we were at the front door!   Tere was there with her husband when I opened the main gate to allow the cab to back in.  She was surprised at so much stuff but very cooperative. I explained I would assist her after I put away my stuff to go in the room and had to return to Villa Antiqua for my computer.  We drove back and he asked if I wanted him to drive me back...I was thinking I already agreed to pay 500 pesos before I asked to return and it is so cheap just to take a bus but then was tired from the move and agreed .  I decided then to take the food in the refrigerator too .   In a minute I was back in the taxi and at my front door in Oaxaca.  Now was the reckoning. I first handed him 500 pesos...expecting him to wait for more but he started reaching for change.  He was giving back 400 pesos! His original charge was 50 not 500 pesos...$4...he added another 50 to do another round trip..to 100 total...I gave him the 500 Pesos and got his name and number for when I need a driver to take me to the airport and pick me up when I return.  I was very pleased and he worked so hard.  Then he told me that he lives next door to me!  That's how he found his way to my door so easily.  

     I gleefully unpacked my clothes, computers, kitchen utensils, food, water dispenser, memory foam , bedsheets, toiletries, etc.  Then I went about reorganizing everything.  I took down shelves, knick knacks, pillows , junk into storage, put out my wastebaskets, chairs, clothes rack etc....and now have a nice neat organized place that is hotter then hell right now...so I left to find a towel...that is packed away in November's stuff, detergent...same...and to relax in the Zocalo. The family I saw before when visiting Helen were still here and outside with their children.  I introduced myself and met Neils from Munich who is waiting for his house to be remodeled.  They told him 5 weeks...ha...yeah...Mexican time?  He is friends of Roland...the father of Kay's lady ladies children.  Roland left last summer but missed his children so returned.  He and Neils were friends and were considering a German Brewery in Oaxaca.  I told them if they bought me a beer I would give them advice.  Nice man though Helen said there infant child crys a lot in the night.
            I met a young family at the bus stop that lived in the states for four years.  The young lady and her sister spoke English fluently and were friendly.  Daddy had his arms full with a baby.  I hopped the first bus and was at the Zocalo in minutes sipping a latte listening to listless jazz on a Sax played by an elderly gentleman...my age.  I felt energized and walked across to a small grocery store but no towels or detergent but there was Kay with a group having her coffee.  I introduced myself and they invited me to join them for dinner at the newly opened Hotel Parador.  Gary and Coral from B.C. Canada knew the Chef and recently discovered this gem that took 14 years to restore to it's glory.  It was elegant, with fountains in the center of an open courtyard and a second level balcony surrounding the dining room with an open sky above the courtyard. The Chef greeted us and a waiter promptly sat us in an empty dining room.  I perused the menu to discover some amazing dishes and CHEAP prices.  The Chef , from Mexico City, trained in Santa Barbara, Florence , Genoa, Madrid before returning to Oaxaca.  His father is Italian so he acquired dual citizenship for Mexico and Italy which allows him to work and travel anywhere in the European Union.  His plans are to leave before next year and open a restaurant in Europe.  My Shrimp Cocktail was not enjoyable...to sweet and poor quality shrimp...plus the presentation was not professional.  The salads for the ladies were very nice and well presented.  Gary's Spaghetti with side Veggies was well done and he said great. My Chicken Cordon Blue with Tamarind Sauce never came until they were almost done.  It was dry and overcooked with no cheese inside that I could tell.  The Sauce was superb.  I rushed through it because they were finished and looking at the bill.  I would go back and will but will order more Italian...which he seemed to do well.
      We bid them goodbye, as they were leaving tomorrow, and agreed we would see them again next year.  Kay showed me the new place she hopes to move to.  It has more of a community in the complex and is lovely.  I didn't get to see the studio as she doesn't have it yet, only a bid on it when she returns...whenever.  I walked her home and she gave me a towel.  I stopped for some Cheetos and detergent then arrived to find my neighbor blocking the balcony with her desk and computer.  It is hot in the rooms so the balcony is where I am also.  I asked for the password and she asked if I speak French.  Ha I thought...the last language on my list...I took 4 years in High School.  I assumed she was French Canadian from Montreal.  Very pleasant and gave me four passwords for four accounts here...depends on which you want to sign in on.  I signed in on one and after 15 minutes of swearing I may have to complain about this...I switched to the "fast" one.  Very pleased.  Fastest connection I've been on in Mexico and right across from where I'll be staying for 5 months the next time. Yippie.  So ends my day.