David's Departure is Depressing as the Days Disappear.

  I paid my rent and explained I was very very happy here but the dog had to go.  I had committed to a year and will honor that but I was leaving this week and when I returned , if the dog problem was not solved, the end of April would be my final day.  I started looking for another place.  A lady offered me a one bedroom house not far from here but I won't be able to view it until I return.  I really do love this place when the dog isn't barking.  It is heaven.  Peaceful, private, quiet, fresh air,  and a terrace with a view to go with it. My plans for this place have come to a halt.  The things I was going to return with are no more.  Since I made my report, the dog has been quieter?  Why I don't know but it is a joy.  I even offered to rent the whole building if I could sublet the downstairs.

     Two of my neighbors moved out and were replaced the same week. One has left their outdoor lights off at night and I can start to see the stars.
     I contacted a CouchSurfer from Tempe, Arizona that said she was visiting Oaxaca and invited her to lunch the day she arrived.  She needed to use a walker because of a spinal injury she suffered when she fell down a flight of stairs in Delhi India after living their three years. We shuffled around the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca until we found a place for lunch and conversation.  Later we found a camera store so she could replace the one she lost on the way here from Tempe.  We got along well and exchanged travel stories.  I did find her attitude toward a young girl selling hand painted book markers and a man selling dressing on a street corner, a bit confrontational.  That was puzzling and I wondered if it had something to do with living three years in India with the caste system, but she also living in Africa for a long time.  She flew the Concord 4 times before it was taken out of service and auctioned on E-Bay.

Try to separate the laundry from the Graffiti Art

     Friday I bid my News Stand Attendant, Hector, goodbye and treated myself to a Giant Shrimp Cocktail for $9 dollars and worth everybit of it.  I asked a lady in the tourist booth for the Oaxacan Cafe.  She directed me to a Hotel near Llano Park and commented they have good Oaxacan cafe. I thought she made an error so repeated my request.  She referred me to another place a bit further away.  I left only to realize after , she thought I was a tourist looking for a cup of Oaxacan coffee when if fact I was looking for the famed chain of about 4 restaurants called "Cafe Oaxaca" that had great food.
       The evening of my last day, I decided to treat myself and looked the restaurant up.  It was called Casa Oaxaca...MY mistake.  I walked by it 10 times and never noticed.  It has a 5 star Diamond rating ?  I was greeted by a very attractive and professional Hostess that asked if I would prefer the roof top.  Of course and I thanked her as she pulled my chair out for me.
I started with a "House" Red wine which was a Mexican Tempor...something.  Not very good so after the waiter prepared my salsa with a Petal and Mortar, I ordered another Mexican Niebro?..something like that.  It was a little better.  He poured both wines at the table and offered a taste first.  My Blue Bean Tortilla Soup was served by a waiter out of a large ceramic Tureen into a bowl with slices of Avocado twisted into Roses and Julienne Crisp Tortillas.  Good but not as good as the Roaring Fork in Scottsdale.  There was a basket of Crisp Blue and Regular Tortillas that went well with the Excellent Salsa. Fresh Sea Bass pan Fried with the Skin on was served with a fresh tomato butter sauce and capers.  Very good...no side dishes and the bill came to $40 with tip....the wine was about $12 of it.  I would go back with a special date.  

Hmmm..Potato Chips with Mustard and Salsa

    Monday was spent checking last minute departure notes.  It was warm at 7:30 pm when I left the house and took the bus to ADO Bus Station where I checked my bag with security so I could walk around Llano Park and pass the time.  10:30 I ate my Happy Pancake, claimed my bag back and 11 pm boarded the bus. 11:15 we were off and I was asleep.  Woke once to visit the bath and returned to sleep until arrival at 5:30 am.  I was in a daze when I caught a taxi to the airport and received sticker shock of $22 dollars.  That was my spending money until departure.
      The 71/2 hours waiting in the airport was a different thing.  I tried sleeping on the marble floor with the rest of the waiting passenger but that was cold and when I opened my eyes a 4 year old was standing over me staring at me.  I did a lot of coffee and walking and getting ready to board shortly...another hour at least. I packed and take the late bus Monday to Mexico City.  I arrive at the airport early Tuesday morning and have to wait until 1 pm for my flight that puts me in Phoenix at 6 pm.  I sleep a little on the bus in and hope I stay awake at the airport. Haste Luego Oaxaca   Golf and Poker look to be boring after this.

Oaxaca folds the tent and takes a nap....for now.

   Llano Park is quiet...all the food and craft tents are gone and only the wooden structures remain to be recycled for next year.  Every nail and screw are salvaged.  I too am preparing my departure to be recycled in January when I return for the winter.
     A couple evenings ago I was watching a movie with my ear buds in to drown out the dog barking. I retired around 10 pm and around 10:30 the dog woke me with his barking. I put in my ear plugs but my left one didn't quite fit.  I was tired and fell asleep only to re-awake around 2 or 3 in the morning when my left ear plug fell out.  I ignored it and went back to sleep.  The next morning I noticed my left ear ached a bit and after my shower I went to clean it with a Q tip but it felt like something was in my ear. That afternoon when I wanted to listen to some music, I noticed the "bud" on the head phone was missing.  I searched the couch, floor, chair...but no bud.  Then it occurred to me that it might be in my ear and when I put the plug in, I pushed it further against my ear drum causing the pain.  I couldn't feel anything and put in my tweezers but couldn't grasp anything so just thought it might be swelling and a minor infection from the plug.  I went to my Doctor but he was out for siesta and returned later but with summer hours the office was closed.
     That evening I took an Advil to relieve the pain and slept well.  Today I returned to the Doctor but still the office was closed.  I went to a meeting with a Mexican lawyer I met at Immigration.  The meeting was at the library and it was standing room only. I only had one hearing aid in and was in the back so my time was a waste.  I did ask German,( his name), why would I want Temporary Residency if: I wasn't going to work here and at this time was not sure I ever wanted Permanent Residency which requires four years of Temporary Residency before you qualify for Permanent. The only advantage was you can come and go out of the country with no problems and you qualify for a 50% discount on bus travel.  You have to pay around $350 for the Temporary Residency.  I get a 6 month Visa included in my airfare when I come into Mexico and if I leave I have to get another each time I re-enter...but I go home at the end of the summer and return for the winter.  I decided to wait until I decide to live here year round.  Meanwhile, if I go to South America , Cuba, the Caribbean or Central America...I just have to get another Visa when I re-enter.   I left the meeting early along with Bill, a volunteer at the library and acquaintance. He has lived everywhere and has a Permanent Residency because he doesn't care to leave.  His friends are here, the living is good and he is happy.
    He also told me if I needed to see a Doctor, just go to the free clinic across the street.
I  did and she referred me to an ear specialist after discovering that I did in fact have an Ear Bud stuck in my ear.  She didn't have the proper tools to remove it. I arrived at siesta time and was told that I had to return at 10 pm in the evening when he returned.  I explained my pain and the emergency so they referred me to the hospital emergency just two blocks down the street.  I arrived and was taken to the front desk where they called a doctor to look at me.  He was on his way and I was to wait.  I explained I already saw two doctors and can't a nurse in the emergency room remove it.  She did for $24 and I was home that afternoon feeling much better.

 

Tour of the Ethnobotanical Garden

          Oaxaca has 32 World Heritage sites. 27 Cultural and 5 Natural which is the most of any country in Latin Americas and Ranked 6th in the world. One of the Natural Heritages of this state is it's Bio Diversity. It has the most Bio Diversity of any country in the Americas.  All Cacti are indigenous to the Americas only.  Beans, Squash and Corn...all originated in Oaxaca over 10000 years ago and were domesticated 7000 years ago.  Oaxaca was still hunter-gatherers or what I like to call Leavers. They only used what they needed.  The other side of the world, in the Fertile Crescent the Takers were building an agricultural civilization and communities. They had horses, cows,water buffalo, donkeys, etc.   Now Oaxaca was doing the same...large cities throughout Central and North America.
      Carol guided my new found friend Jean and I on a two hour tour of the Botanical Gardens that were all indigenous plants to Oaxaca only. My thoughts of this 2 hour tour of being boring, were quickly laid to rest. Carol, had been coming to Oaxaca many years, trained to be a docent at the Garden and a gardener herself.  She was a wonder and brought her classroom in a bag.  She was constantly pulling out samples and charts to aid in our understanding of this complex transformation that took place after the Spanish Conquerors arrived and just from trade all over the world.

Festival is close to closing...

      There was a Photo Exhibit by famed Photographer Marcela Taboada.  The subject was the participants in the 1994 Guelaguetza with them wearing the traditional clothing of the 8 different regions of the state.  I attended that and just spent afternoon wandering around the different booths and events .
     A neighbor in Villa Antiqua moved out last week and I think she took Butch, Fi-Fi and Fido with her.  I hope they have a good place to live. They were my friends out here in nowhere land. I found out Butch was put down and Fi-Fi is without a mate and Fido's dad is now in dogie heaven.
    Today I downloaded some files my Rental Agent sent, had them printed in Oaxaca, then signed and mailed back.  I feel relieved that my condo is rented and will stay in Scottsdale until they arrive to assure them that any issues that arise,  will be taken care of.  I want repeat renters.  It means I miss the Day of the Dead, Christmas and the Radish Festival...but that will be here next year when I can come early and experience it.

     Day by day my presence in Yartareni is being noticed.  MotoTaxi drivers wave.  My laundress knows Senior David and sometimes extends credit if I forget my wallet or don't have change. The most interesting to me are the ones that speak English fluently.  Most are tour guides, taxi drivers, Moto Taxi drivers, waiters, cooks, ....at least the ones I've had an opportunity to meet.  Some were deported though none told me that. Most had jobs or were in College and their Visas ran out or they had to return to help the family.  The Moto Taxi driver gets 5 Pesos for up to 3 passengers ...so maybe 15 Pesos a  trip...or $1.10-.20 a trip.
       Oaxaca, "The Eternal Spring", has the most enjoyable weather of any place I've ever stayed , including Hawaii.  I was curious what time the Sun sets in December. It sets at 6 pm...I think the sunrise, sunset the year around, makes it one of the lightest places as the best weather of anywhere I want to be. This is the Stats...with pictures of graphs..http://www.gaisma.com/en/location/oaxaca.html
     I bought some Bears in Oaxaca.  They were small night lights that changed color for my grandchildren's room.  Both have their own room. When you grow up from 2-3 years old to 16 or so and have your own room, that is a big deal.  I believe they should have a "Glow Light" or something to add magic to your imagination when it's dark and your all alone in your own room. You can always turn it off.  I did think it Odd that they would pick Bears as a Light but they are popular stuffed animals and cuddly play dolls.  My light was a good size globe light.  I could spin it and imagine visiting those countries, each and everyone.

Sunday and the Festival

    Yesterday was focused on planning today and eating "Happy Pancakes"  I needed to get some drinking water before I depart on my planned attack on Oaxaca's Festival's today... Sunday. 
      I took my empties down to the local Miscellaneous store to fetch a pail of water...well two 5 gall containers.  I paid my $4 and hailed a MotoTaxi with an elderly gentleman, about my age and my two waters for about 30 yards...well worth it. I talked to the hombre but had no idea what he replied...we smiled a lot.
    When the water was secured I hailed a MotoTaxi for ADO, the bus stop.  I was going to buy a ticket for my departure to Mexico City next month but the Station was packed and lines out the door.  
       I walked to Llano park and said Hello to Hector my newspaper salesmen.  He said that his business was actually hurting as no one wanted to read a magazine.   I think many will buy before leaving to read on the bus , car,or plane home.  
     The park was just opening up.  Beautiful day in Oaxaca.  I was there to do photos and catch the action.  A lot ...busy day with activities throughout Oaxaca. 

Fried Bananas

I ate 5 Tacos here.

Churros

       Llano park is hosting the Mezcal Festival with over 50 different companies to sample...the rest of the park is full of over 100 crafts booths from all over Mexico...like Cave Creek Art Fest when they come from all over the US.  Then there is the food stalls...and just Pineapple Fru Fru drinks booths ....at least 4 of those...serving you your drink in a Pineapple.

Mexico is about Color

        One food stall attracted my attention for Taco's, so after touring the Park, I decided to get a lunch there.  I only wanted 2 Tacos but they were selling a platter of five for 40 pesos...OK...I wanted water but the only water they had was 1.5 liter bottles...another 20 pesos...then as I finished there was some 10% charge added on and the bill came to 90 pesos...I was debating if this waiter ever graduated from elementary school but instead gave him 100 pesos with a Gracias.  I had things to do.  

Gringos

     I headed for my Cafe and Latte to stall time for the Parade and refresh myself.  When I left the Cafe, for a Photo Exhibit, there was the Parade.  It sure wasn't the biggie I expected but managed some photos and accepted a glass of Mezcal from some promoters with a bottle and plastic cups for all.  I swear it was a third of a water glass.  I never did find the Photo exhibit....another excuse to return Monday.

    It was time for the Mezcal Festival and then home.  I paid my 40 Pesos, got searched by Security (the usual Compton Terrace stuff) . took some photos while accessing the situation...then attacked.  50 booths and 50 tastes later the Guard at the entrance informed me the exit was on the other side of the park.
          I was leaving around 6 pm and figured I could buy something and carry it home now I was departing.  I got a large Black vase and we wrapped it in newspaper and I held it close all the way to ADO to catch the bus....wrong...the MAIN Parade was on the Camino...all one way with NO buses.  Everyone was dancing in the street and each district had a band and a float and Giant Paper Machai  people...passing out Mezcal shots from the bottle in plastic glasses to anyone.

    Then it started to rain....a real rain....I had to walk to McDonalds...VW... to catch a detour bus with my umbrella while embracing the Vase to my chest and still getting soaked...it was water and warm...I didn't mind but no buses were coming to the stop but a lot of Collective Taxi's were.  I took one and put down my umbrella in the front seat with my Vase in my lap.   Akee we picked up a family of 6 so the Vase went in the truck and a young man in my lap,and four in the back seat.   We arrived at my stop and I was concerned about the Vase so jumped out and checked it all out when he pulled it from the trunk and took my 10 Pesos.   

       I made it to the MotoTaxi and Karen from Monticello, New York, was my driver.  There has been no rain in Yartareni...which was good since I left my umbrella in the long gone taxi.  Karen's story I want to hear soon and I think she wants someone that will understand it from having lived in the US for so long.  She is American but Mexican blood and is here to help and care for her Grandmother.  A very exceptional person.  I asked how she was getting along...first personal feeler I have put out since I met her.  She was getting along...not happy but resigned.  I hope to talk to her again in the future when she is not working.  

        My Vase was OK and I was exhilarated after a long and wonderful day.  Time is running short and the closer I get to leaving the more I look forward to returning.   

     I'm anxious to see my Arizona friends....about 4-7 that I can think of.  I miss Adam and Danny, my bartenders, and a few of my Poker buddies and acquaintances in both New River and Talking Stick. 

         Enough...I think I'll mop the floor tomorrow.  I like living outside of Oaxaca, even though it's an inconvenience at times, it's a comfortable resting place.  The problem is that something is going on in Oaxaca everyday...you wonder what you miss if you don't go.  

          I'm anxious about the future of my condo in Scottsdale.  A lot of my lifestyle depends on how this scenario unfolds.  Do I rent it and cover most of the expenses while saving money and enjoying Oaxaca...or do I keep it without renting and absorb the costs until my savings run out.  The later means I will be stuck in Oaxaca to afford Scottsdale.  Not a bad situation but when the frequent flyer miles run out then I'll join the illegals and hop a train home or create a new home?