Hostel to Hotel for duration of stay in Istanbul

 

Fresh Liquid Yogurt on Draught

Cheeses

I checked out of the oven at 7am.  Walked down to the Tram stop and had a fresh squeezed OJ before boarding the Tram to the other side of Istanbul across the bridge. After checking in I complained the AC was not up to snuff but it was a weekend and the only thing they could do was move me but not until the next day. I had a good internet connection so went along with that.  Then I left for the Spice Market and more exploring.There David purchased exotic Turkish Delights, figs stuffed with walnuts, mulberries coated with pistachios , famous Turkish coffees , took some photos and returned to the Hot Hotel.  He went out that night to get a bite to eat and for a walk in the park when he was approached by a Turkish man that explained he worked at the University across the street.  It was summer and he supplemented his non income by doing private tours at reasonable rates.  David had no problem with that and had used services similar in other situations so agreed on 35 Euro for a full day of tours in the immediate area.  They were to meet the next morning at the restaurant outside of David's hotel at 9:30 am.

Slow cooked Innards.

He showed up just as David was finishing breakfast . David felt a two half day tours better than one long day of walking in the heat.  He agreed and on the way to the first site, David noticed an advertisement for a similar restaurant as the one advertised in the NY Times that he wanted to go back to that evening. He asked the guide about the meat...was it pork and he replied it was the innards . OK...David was not going back for innards.  He asked about another restaurant he heard of in the new area that served only rice and beans and was famous.  The guide knew of it immediately and they agreed to have lunch there after the morning tour. 

Blue Mosque

Yasar

            First stop was the Blue Mosque..the largest in Europe.

Welcome

 Muslims take absolution before entering the Mosque. They wash their face, hands and wrists, and their feet and ankles then take off their shoes and enter the Mosque.  The women do this on on the other side so the men are not aroused by the sight of their ankles. Tomorrow start of Ramadan where there is no sex or eating allowed after the sun goes up until it goes down. The goes for thirty days.  I believe my guide said the first night after the first day of fasting, everyone eats free and together.  Rich or poor , young or old,etc get together with their neighbors and share the first meal after the first day of fasting. Turkey is a Muslim state. The internet IS restricted throughout Turkey.  To what degree I'm not sure but no nudity or sex can be found. This restriction on sexual morals in a country where it is OK to have 5 wives and I am pretty sure they don't have to be 18 to get married or have an arranged marriage, seems to be a contradiction. I think it screws up the natural desires of people when women go around completely covered in black in 100% heat walking behind their man.  I see children running up to Mannequins displaying western wear, such as a dress on the street, and grab the crotch of the Mannequin then go to the next and squeeze her breasts.  Suppressed sexual behavior causes deviant not natural results.  I am not Freud but he had a point.

The Blue Mosque was very impressive.  Next we toured the Hagia Sophia Museum which originally was a Christian Church , then a Mosque and now a Museum.  Also very nice.

Hagia Sophia

Stick in your thumb and twist for good luck.

Cistern with Marble Columns in Water

Medusa

Then to end the tour for the morning we visited the ancient Basilica Cistern ,527AD ,that used to supply the water to the people.  It was under the Hadgi Sophia.  This was very nice because it was cool and COOL at the same time. Arabic background music in the background echoing throughout added a nice touch.

Yasar, David's guide , took him to the restaurant Ali Baba for world famous beans and rice made with love. Served with the usual Garden fresh Organic Cukes, Tomatoes, with a little lemon and olive oil dressing and bread...they were great.  After, David made a point of saying he wanted to pay Yasar now for everything.  The 35 Euros or 85 Lira so he could settle it now rather than tomorrow.  Yasar agreed and David tipped him 15 more Lira and bought his lunch. Yasar walked him back to the hotel explaining he was a guest in his country and busksters were annoying so he would keep them away.  He also carried David's bottled water or any things he might have bought.  He acted like his personal valet and bodyguard.

Large Pot is Beans 

Who could ask for more.

When David arrived , he had been moved into his new really cold room with a double bed , cable tv that worked, private bath, refrigerator and internet connection.  He was very happy, took a rest then went out to eat some hummus and relax with his book in the park. Sure enough a Bukster approached David and said as usual...Where you from?  You could say Egypt and he would say he used to live in Cairo...in this case it was Saratoga Springs N. Y.   He told David he would like to give him his card and David accepted, expecting him to hand it over.  That's not how they work...you have to follow him to his office just across the street.  David explained he just wanted to walk in the park but the man insisted only one moment to get his card.   Then he walked in his fancy Carpet and Ceramic dish place and a boy popped out of nowhere with some Tea for David.   David said he had to leave and the man accused him of insulting him.  Now I will drink your Tea for you!  Please at least sit while I drink your Tea.  Don't insult me further.  David walked out wishing Yasar his bodyguard had been there. He read a little in the park then went back to his hotel.

 The restaurant owner outside his hotel asked David to join him.  David had a beer and chatted with the owner for over an hour.  He also sold carpet and told David the differences between a Turkish carpet and the Turkish carpet David put in his dining room. It was interesting.  It was time to retire for another tour with Yasar.  The call to prayer went out but it was different this time.  Tonight was the start of Ramadan and 30 days of fasting from food and sex during the daylight. I could hear the call like a chorus of people chanting while in my room so threw the window open.  It lasted a few minutes then ceased but was very pleasant.

Midnight Express to Istanbul...well maybe not "Express"

 Hirohito, my new Japanese lady friend and I waited and waited  along with about 20 others that were sprawled out the the concrete platform hoping the train would arrive. She had been with the same company as an office worker for 6 years.  She said over 50% of Japanese work for the same company all there lives. We all knew it was a sleeper and all niter so most were prepared for it.  The 9:07 arrived from Sophia to transport us to Istanbul around Midnight.  We boarded and were shown our berths.  Mine already had two sleeping passengers on the middle and upper bunk.  I crawled into the bottom bunk .  It was an oven with no circulation .  The door into the hall was closed to keep the light and noise out.  The shades were drawn and windows closed.  I sweated and rocked with the movement of the train for around 3 hours until we reached the border.

 We were all awakened  and waited while a Bulgarian checked each compartment and each passenger. That took about one hour.  Then we resumed our positions and the train ran for about 15 minutes when we were stopped and ordered off the train to stand in line to stamp our entry into Turkey.  I read we needed to buy a Visa at this point.  Some did and some didn't but no one found out until  they reached the border guard who sent me out and down the road to the Visa control guy to buy my Visa.  No Bulgarian Levs accepted so I had to stand in line at the duty free kiosk to change money to Euros and buy my Visa , put it into the passport and return to the border guard line.  The line had doubled since they let out more of the "2nd Class" passengers.  I finally got my passport stamped and returned to my hot bunk.

The train departed around 3 am and was cooler now.  l finally fell asleep for at least 6 hours before being awakened every time the train stopped to let some passengers out at the different Whistle Stops along the way.   The conductor had to wake the whole train to make sure he didn't miss anyone.  One of my bunk mates had a girlfriend that couldn't sleep and kept coming in to see if he was awake and wanted to talk...she was pissing off me and the other guy who didn't even know the man with the needy girlfriend.

We exited the train in Istanbul at 12:15 in the afternoon exhausted and hungry.  I was in no mood to hassle with the Tram directions the Hostel gave. I hired a taxi who wanted 40 Lira...now I don't know what that was in dollars but sounded like around $25 in dollars. I guessed right.  I balked but he started up with  gas in Istanbul is $3 a litter blah blah and I explained to him I was sick , tired and hungry and really just wanted him to drive me to the Hostel.  I paid him and walked in to an oven.

 Do I have a fan in my room ...no.  I am cancelling my reservation for 6 days to this " top rated  hostel"  and will pay for tonight.  He gave me the 6th floor walk up!  It was an oven.  I haven't been able to access the internet as advertised and the one computer they have always has a line of people waiting.  Now I can't even get on the computer to find another place to stay so I just left to find a hotel.  I walked back to the water front , found an ATM so I could pay my bill , had a small delicious fast food lunch and returned up the mountain.         

I was trying to get an idea as to where the hotels would be.  I knew they weren't on the waterfront so took a shower, changed into shorts and took off for the water front again to take a water taxi to the center of town. As I was on my way back down the Mountain, I noticed a Chef outside with a rotisserie smoking meat with wood charcoal.  Then I noticed he advertised a review by the N.Y. Times for his famous smoked meats.  He asked if I wish to sit down but explained I just had a snack earlier and would stop on my return.

I got to the dock, I paid a dollar, jumped on the departing ferry with the crowd .  I then realized this was not a taxi to the other side but a trip to Nantucket.  It was early and pleasant the for $1 a great ride.  The air was cool on the water and the ferries and sea buses were going back and forth  like Venice.  Just not mine.  Mine crossed the Strait of Istanbul from Europe to Asia .  I panicked when we arrived and everyone rushed to get off to get the train to Syria or something.  I asked one of the crew who explained they will eventurally return to the original starting point so just relax, stay aboard and enjoy.  I did .  All these ships were state of the art with wide screen TV , in Turkish, snack bars, multi levels, clean and great facilities.  I did return and decided to take the Tram to the Sultana or some big tourist attracted across the water in one of the main centers of Asian Istanbul where I might find a hotel.

Asia

Europe

  The trams were top of the line, AIR CONDITIONED, clean, efficient and accepted  smart cards, micro chips, or tokens that could be purchase at  machines that accepted  bills or coins with directions in English and three other languages.   This was nice.  I exited near one of the most famous Mosques in the world and saw a sign for a hotel.  The streets were packed with Turks and Tourists and everything was alive.  People praying in the streets.  Beautiful displays of food , Cafes with exotic menus both expensive and cheap.  I found the entrance and walked up to find the desk clerk sound asleep on the couch.  He was startled and embarrassed but showed me a room immediately...yes it had A/C, internet Wi Fi, private bath and centrally located for the tour buses and sights.  How much....50 Euros!  OK that was double what I was paying and with our dollar in the dumps...came out to be $70.  5 days...$400.  I told him I would think about it but after checking out another that wanted 80  Euros...I took it.

Excuse Me...can I get by here?

Yum

Yum

One of those...and those and ....

I wandered around a bit and took some photos then decided to return to the NY Times award winning restaurant. The Tram proved very convenient so I arrived at the bottom of the Mountain and slowly walked to the restaurant where I was informed I was too late!  I thought he was joking until I noticed all the meats he smoked with the wood charcoal were gone.  He spends all day making this dish then sells in out in about 2 hours.  Not a bad life.  If I want to try it, I have to return at 7pm the next day.  I passed up all those great restaurants to be turned down...I have to eat there now.

Milk Pudding with Ice Cream

 Meanwhile I trudged up the mountain to the hostel.  There was one place still open.  This is not the busy part of town and most restaurants have closed for the evening.  I found one and David , an Australian I met earlier when checking in the hostel was just finishing.  I quickly asked to see a menu before the owner closed on me.  He showed me the menu then took me to his kitchen where he has all his creations on display.  He must make them during the day  then lays them out at room temperature until he sells them...then they served them that way!  I experienced this in the last city and didn't die but really wish I could eat at a real restaurant that was cooking food to order.  I took the stuffed peppers served at room temperature.

 David and I chatted about our travels.  He retried around 8 years ago and backpacks 2 months out of the year.  He was in the travel business and after he and his wife were married they traveled around the world...typical Aussie walk about.  Both have traveled a lot together but lately he travels mostly alone to places he has never been.  A wealth of information about Myanmar , China, Pakistan, and travel in general.  I wanted a beer but nothing sold alchocol near a Mosque so he suggested I climb the rest of the mountain where all the restaurants and bars were.  I wasn't to enthused about his suggestion but neither was I enthused about spending the evening in a oven without something to assist my sleep.  We exchanged email addresses and  I took off up the mountain.

 I mean cobblestone streets straight up with no shops, lights or encouragement until I neared the top.  There was an entire city up there that was alive and vibrant with all the streets a maze of bars, Hookah bars, night clubs, restaurants, cafes, all packed  and then the Main Drag...a pedestrian boulevard with fancy shops and ice cream shops everywhere.  People were out in groves.  I read the police raided the businesses there. Recently Istanbul imposed a "No Smoking" in bars or restaurants.  Well we have seen what happens in the beginning and the same happened here.  Everyone wanted to sit outside so they could smoke.  The business owners moved all their furniture into the streets to accommodate the customers.  The local residents couldn't even walk down their own streets and the barely two lanes became one so cars couldn't get through either. The morning found trash everywhere so the residents complained, the police raided the businesses and forced the owners to put the furniture back inside.   Well it looked to me that didn't last long...all the streets were full of people sitting outside!  I bought some gin and orange juice then returned to my oven.

 I couldn't sleep so came down to do my blog.  Nice crowd of travelers I should be visiting with.  The clerk just brought over my laundry.  They offered to do it for 10 lira and I explained I really only have a shirt and pants but would be willing to pay the 10 Lira or $6 to have it done.  Since it was such a small amount he did if for free and just handed it to me. Nice Gesture. Australian David had retired early as he was checking out at 6 am to explore the Golden Horn, an area up the Strait of Istanbul where I traveled by boat.  He was getting off and walking it.   Stay tuned for more "trails and trials" of David.

Plovdiv by Bus for a Three day Vacation from my Travels

OK the bitch from hell didn't fire her slave.  Thank God...she makes great coffee.  The only thing at the Orient Express Hostel I enjoyed.  I booked the Plovdiv Hostel ASAP and took a taxi to the Bus station, bought a ticket to Plodiv for $10 boarded, fell asleep and woke in Plodiv.

This city goes back to 670 BC or thereabouts.  I took a cab from the station to the center and found my Hotel with AC, a Refrigerator, private bath and daily maid service in the center of the Old Town...I booked another day immediatly.  I was on vacation from my travels!  It was heaven. The last night in Sofia, the nightly fireworks display at 10pm was followed by a real fireworks display of Thunder and Lightening most of the night.  I closed the windows to sleep.  Tonight in Plovdiv while eating at the Vinalia Wine Bistro it started to Thunder again.  It was refreshing but still no real rain.  I finished early, picked up a map at one of 20 Casinos in town. Bulgarians seem to take life very seriously.  They are intellectually focused and seldom smile or especially laugh.  Kind of like the Germans. My tour guide in Sofie did have a dry sense of humor but at least she make a joke once an a while while smiling and managed a laugh.

     I'm walking to the train station tomorrow and make sure I have a ticket for Istanbul on Thursday Night.  I hope to be over this cold or flu I've been nursing for over two weeks now. My throat is still sore, I'm still coughing and my lung is still throwing up green glue.Speaking of that, I've seen gypsy children around 8-13 years old , openly sniffing glue or paint in a paper or plastic bag in the public squares in more than one country in the Balkans.

Information?

Rail Tickets sold Here!

I had breakfast , then booked a free tour for the following day.   The excursion to the Train Station was no easy task.  The walk was pleasant but trying to find out how to get into it and then buy a ticket was an experience.  There are two bus stations and a train station in the the same area with a super highway / boulevard separating them.  There is an underground maze of shops and entrances and exits that connect all of them.  I finally managed to get to the train station information in the lobby.  She told be I had to cross the Boulevard to  to the ticket office across the street and gave me the address.  I finally discovered a breach in the wall separating the high speed traffic that ran down both sides.  Got to the center and finally made the other side without becoming road kill.  Finally I found the hot office with no ventilation and a one lady who informed me the train was full tonight.  I explained I wasn't going tonight and she said it was full tomorrow too.  I said I was leaving until Thursday night and she seemed disappointed that she would have to sell me a ticket.  Thirty minutes later I walked out with a ticket on a bottom berth on an overnight train to Istanbul.  If it is close to the adventure I had finding the station and getting the ticket, it will be interesting.

I walked back to the hotel stopping along the way to treat myself to an Ice Cream and Cafe.  I also replenished my medicine for the sore throat and cough, took a shower, paid the hotel bill and left for Terry's Irish Pub. While I was paying the bill , a gentleman overheard me and told me he was from Louisville, Kentucky.  He is a resident of Turkey now where he has worked the past few years.

Terry's Irsh Pub was called the Global Bar.  Nice name Terry but no one was there. It was around 7 pm and I walked a distance to hopefully find someone to talk to in English.  I returned to have dinner at Hemingway's.  Big mistake to eat at a chain restaurant.  The food was eatable...and that is all I can say.

Tour Guide had great Body Language 

Small Group and Quiet

The following morning I went right for the tour at the Tourist Information.  It was scheduled for 9:30 but after keeping us standing around in the hot sun they finally started the tour at 10pm.  Two and a half hours of not understanding the tour guide and climbing hills...mountains on cobblestones...I was ready to have lunch.  I came down off the mountain with no directions from the guide and was lost, hot and tired.  I finally took lunch at the Vinalia where I ate two nights ago. The Chicken soup was room temperature but really tasty , then came the Bulgarian Specialty of Stuffed Peppers with a cream sauce.  It was cold or also room temperature which I didn't expect but figured that is the way so I ate it.

Then a quick nap and I was off to the Casino for a Texas Holdem tournament.  It turned out there weren't enough people so I wasted $10 in a slot and left for dinner at Happy's.  It made me Happy!  I had some wine at a very cheap price, then ordered the Shashimi special with 6 different fresh raw fish marinated is lemon and served with soy and ginger...to die for! I ordered some California Sushi Rolls after then had a Sushi Dessert wrapped in chocolate with coconut instead of rice and candied Papaya and Mango center!  Another winner.

Now I felt like playing Texas Holdem.  I went to the ATM then on to the table and bought some chips to get into a regular game of all in Texas Holdem....then I went to the ATM and did it over again. I finally got it right and after 3 hours at the table I managed to have a great time with my Bulgarian friends...get all my drinks for free....and only lost about $50 in the end.  I won most of the money back on Roulette playing Black Odd as I was leaving. A ploy I often use that seems to work and enable me to spend a lot of time having fun for almost nothing. No Blackjack was available though I was told if I requested it they would provide a dealer.  I did ...they didn't.  It is hard to make any money at a Casino run by the Russian Mafia in the Balkans or the Baltic's or Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic,...well you get the point.

Late night television had an Escort Business that showed off the ladies assets and their talents!  Another was an info commercial for a strap on vibrating dildo so if your man wasn't enough to please you , your girlfriend could.   Tomorrow it is the Midnight train to Istanbul, Turkey...wish me luck.

Going to miss this Plovdiv

Well I spent the day catching up on emails and booking my air ticket to Buffalo when I return.  I was going to return to the Casino but instead took a walk to a club that offered some eclectic choices on the menu.  I checked out at 5pm and left my luggage in storage until 8pm when I'll take a taxi to the Train station for my 9:10 connection to Istanbul from Sofia.  I am not enthused about that part of the trip as it is hot and I don't think I sleep well in a bottom berth on an all night train that stops at the border for passport checks...we shall see.  Right now I'm sitting at the Art Club in the outdoor Terrace working on my blog. The cold yogurt soup and wine was great. Now enjoying a double Illy Espresso with Chocolate Mouse while listening to Internet Sky Jazz Radio. A treat before I depart.  Yes the whole city has Free Wi-Fi connections!

  I can get Internet Connection but no cold bottled water here.  I'm on the Track with another 30-40 minutes to wait and a young Japanese girl to keep me company. This is going to be hot if the train is not Air Conditioned.  There is a breeze out now but still hot and humid. The Taxi driver told me he would take me for 70 Lev...I paid 50 for an all night sleeper with a border stop.  He could have had me there in less time but the Taxi was hot too.  Everything is Hot ...can't wait to return to cool Arizona.  Two hours later I decided to call Bruce on my Sky network on the computer...it was like he was right there in the train station. Amazing. I played Texas Holdem until my battery ran down.  Where is that train.

Sofia

The bus ride to Sofia, about 6 hours was pleasant and air-conditioned with one appropriate "Bus Stop" called Merilyn's after Marilyn Monroe.  When the bus entered the city, it looked depressing and run down.  David slept a little arrived refreshed, changed his money over and headed for the city center and Orient Express Hostel.  He had made up his mind that he didn't want to stay three nights in this city.  Directions said to take Tram 12 and get off at the center.  David found the Tram but someone he asked didn't know where the stop was and suggested a taxi.  David walked and walked until he was lost in the "Center".  There was a lot of road construction for a add on to the subway system.  The sidewalks were all tore up; and barriers were everywhere...David took a taxi...that went around the block and dropped him at his hostel in two minutes.  Directions said the Hostel was on the fourth floor but there was no signs indication there was any Hostel at this address.  He walked in the front door and after he got up to the 2nd floor, decided to leave the suitcase.  Then on the fourth floor their were two apartments but no sign so he started knocking and trying to ring a bell but no answer/.  He walked back grabbed his suitcase and returned to the outside where he noticed one of the bells said Hostel...Fifth Floor.  Now the door was locked so he rang the bell and sure enough they buzzed him into the building where he walked up 5 flights to one HOT hostel.  He immediatly told the desk lady that he was only staying 2 instead of 3 days...she didn't speak any English so called the owner on the mobile. She explained to David a 3 days cancellation notice was policy and I could do what I wanted but she was charging me for 3 days. David hung up and got on the internet with Hostel World to complain.  He noted the listing said 24 hour cancellation notice so before paying he called the owner and she accepted his two day notice.  The room slept three people and was Hot with the sun coming in the open window and jackhammers pounding away 5 floors down. David took a shower, paid, booked his next place with A/C and left for dinner.

Vladimir my Idol

He met a couple of travelers from the Canary Islands and they recommended a free walking tour they did that day.  It was 3 hours and started at 6pm but was threatening rain.  The tour on Sunday, the next day was at 11am and 6 pm so David decided to do it on Sunday.  The Confetti Restaurant across the Street was packed and when he tried to get a seat on the Terrace he was  informed that without a reservation he would have to sit inside.  He did and it was great.  He returned to bed, slept well , had some coffee and toast when he awoke and left to explore. He met Vladimir  Alekseevich along the way and donated some money for gas so he could continue his travels around the world on the Motorcycle.   Motorcycle Traveler does the world! Vladimir was 69 years old, deaf, and has been to over 100 countries on his Bike!  Now that is a traveler!  David was right around the corner from the nicest part of the city which until just now, didn't realize there was a nice part.

Free Sophia Tour

The tour started at 11am and about 36 English speaking people showed up from Switzerland, Portugal, England, Australia, and a nice lady from Montreal that David befriended.  She was in Sofia for 6 weeks to open an IKEA and train the staff.  "Free Sofia Tour"
split us into two groups and our guide started us off.  She was excellent and was a history major at Sofia University.  This was a volunteer organization but we all gave donations at the end of the tour which was 31/2 hours long.  It was hot but not to bad.  I would have never know all these places were right outside my door.  It was fascinating.

I returned to Confetti when I noticed they all have internet WiFi available.  I ran across the street and returned with my laptop to work on the blog.That didn't work.  My computer didn't recognize their Wi-Fi...maybe because I keep a Firewall when traveling and it was an Open network.  The food was great and I really felt like a King feasting on a fabulous Spinach and Ricotta Lasagna with a nice Malbec wine and a Coffee and Metaxa Cognac.When I returned to the Hostel, the bitch from hell owner was still lounging in front of the TV where I left her.  Then a man  I suspected as being a Muslim Mongolian accompanied by a young pretty Oriental Muslim came in to see MY room. I allowed it thinking they were considering it for tomorrow when I check out.  Then after they left , the bitch told me she may have rented the room for four people and if they decide to move in tonight, she would have to move me to the room across the hall!  I told her I was retiring early and had to get up early and was not moving.  Despite the fact she said anyone caught smoking in the hostel would be evicted immediatly..she lit up a cigarette and fumed with the fumes. I wanted to signal him that the room was hotter than hell but she kept an eye on me while showing the room.  She only cares about money but won't spend any for a fan to make the room comfortable for the guests.  The assistant she had did my laundry today and pressed it all with an iron for me ...all for $4.  I think she fired the assistant today and took over to save money. She got upset when I told her there was no toilet paper in the bathroom!  This was ranked on HostelWorld as one of the best.  I think she had her friends write in lies.  I will give her all F's tomorrow when they send me my survey!