The End with Reflections

Pizza

Sunday was the last day of the Parada so I arrived early because of the threat of rain.  I managed to take some photos and return without rain.

Hank and David

Rice and Curry

Last night Hank joined us for Curried Lamb and Rice. He was Theo's lover and friend.  Theo was one of the Doctors who administered euthanasia to David Lavington, my artist friend that was dying from Aides. Theo also would deliver scripts to Jeannette's mailbox for me when I got sick. I knew them through Jeannette and had been to their home on occasion.  Theo's passed away last year.  We had a nice visit and shared our love of Thailand.

The following day, I  had lunch at Espirt in Downtown Amsterdam. I ran in to the restaurant to escape a Jarakartan man trying to put the make on me.  He followed me as I got off the bus and kept saying how good looking a man I am while givng me his phone number.  As I was asking for the check after being there an hour sipping my Cafe and reading...I look up and there he was waving to me from outside the window.  Back Door?  No! He was gone when I left , I was tired and returned for a nap.


That evening I took some photos down by the river of boaters before returning to dinner and bed. We had Boar Casserole with Sauerkraut.

I'm tired of just sitting around this week when I've done what I want. I now want to be home. If I was home I could find lots to do but here I can't just open the newspaper and see what is going on.   I decided to start taking day trips to Harlem, Utrech, and someplace I've never been.  Also I'm exploring Amsterdam.  There are some parts in the North of Amsterdam that you have to take a ferry to.  Fishing villages you can have lunch and return the same day. Jeannette called Ronald who used to work outside of Amsterdam and commute by boat everyday.  He suggested I take an afternoon and have lunch by the water.  They talked...or Jeannette did for over an hour non stop.  I could never do that on the phone.

So...what's it all about David?  Peter and  Jeanette's genuine love, loyalty, acceptance, friendship, sharing,...Orhan and  his artistic bent with a willingness to share.  You ride with this man on his motorcycle through the streets of Istanbul.   Mike, your poker playing friend and his Muslim family wedding with you sitting at one of the honored tables and 500 guests in attendance.  The Romanian Interpol Policeman Dumitru's offer and resulting tour of Timisoara.   Albania in a stationwagon across 30 miles of dirt road with Mike and his Son exploring Shkoder on a hot Sunday afternoon.  The Aussie in Skopje riding his newly purchased used motorbike across the Balkans from Lebanon.    The Pharmacist in Podgorica from Ohrid Macedonia.  Varna the Bulgarian seaside village on the Black Sea. The first impression of Belgrade on arrival then the second on departure. Bucharest's old city.  Mostar, Bosnia being picked up by the mother of the Hostel's owner then her sharing her grandson's birthday cake with you. The shopkeeper that gave me a bottle of  Bosnia's national drink.  Pristina's Grand Hotel and the complimentary lemonade and the Bates' Hotel Hostel on the hill. Split's seaside and the strange hostel... Walking the wall surrounding Dubrovnik's old city and the bitch who owned the Hostel. Living in the old city of Kotor and the wonderful Hostel lady. Zagreb and Joline from Australia at our wonderful Hostel. Sophia's Free Tour and the guide. Plodiv's tour up steep cobblestone streets. The cold that infected me within the first week and only ended the 7th week and tons of medicine later. I managed three books and a few magazines. The Montmarte's Hostel treating me like a King.  Istanbul they didn't charge me to do my laundry...Seemed like it was a year of travel.

Last Meal

Dessert @ Jeannette's

Airport Lounge

The last few days were mostly overcast and rain with little sun. I still walked around this lovely city and never tire of it's surprises and beauty. My last night Jeannette made another of her great meals. A delicious Stir Fry Chinese dish. The Amsterdam Schipol International Airport is one of the best. I made my flight and am back home but my chocolate is in Jeannette's refrigerator!  Good to be back and welcomed by both Marjorie and Bruce...I'm so spoiled.

Amsterdam Departure

      The taxi delivered David to the Belgrade airport and after checking his one bag he boarded the plane and was in Amsterdam after sleeping the whole trip.

AMSTERDAM SOUTH STATION

David could only exchange Croatian money into a small amount of Euros at the airport. No one accepted, Serbian, Bulgarian, Romanian or any other currencies from the Balkans. He took the train into Amsterdam but choose South Station instead of Rai which was close to Jeannette’s.  South Station was big and he had never been there.  He noted on the map that a bus that comes to South Station also goes to Jeannette’s so he decided to find the stop and wait for the bus. This complex is immense and David got lost, went around in a circle and was back at the station asking directions.  It is upstairs the women pointed.  The road goes over the station along with the train and the trams.  David climbed up some stairs and found the bus waiting for him.  I stopped by the local Coffee shop on my way back and picked up some hash.
         I arrived and  unpacked in his familiar room then joined his dear friends for Surinamese take away at their dining room table.  We reminisced a bit before retiring.

That evening Peter and David got some Take out from the local Surinamese Restaurant and they ate at home. Chatted and retired around Midnight.

 David left late in the morning to buy some wine for their outing this afternoon.  The wine store couldn’t cash the only 100 Euro bill he had left .  He charged it then decided to get some change at a local bank then also pick up some hash for the rest of his stay.   He found an ING Bank but was totally dumbfounded.  There were no tellers and the banks doors were open onto the street.  Computers with large wide screen were suspended from the ceiling.  There was a large waiting area/lounge in the center with two counters on each side with a  “Take a Number” computer that greeted you at the entrance.  I hit the screen and three choices came up.  It was in Dutch but I’m sure none of them said “Cash a 100 Euro” I hit one and took a seat until my number came up.  Meanwhile there were four ATM machines and people were coming in and using them to make deposits, withdrawals, and pay bills.  I approached the counter and presented my dilemma.  The gentleman asked if I had an account and I explain no and why.  He said normally that only do this for customers but he would make an exception.  He took my 100 Bill and inserted it into a machine.  Then asked what denominations I wanted my change in.  He then entered that info on his computer and a few seconds later the machine opened up and out popped my money.  There was no sign that even indicated it was a bank except ING.

Country Retreat

Small Kitchen and Living area

Peter working in Garden with Cigar and Hat

Shrimp Coctails

The following day david went for a walk by the Amstel River but forgot his camera.  He picked up some wine to share with the late afternoon BBQ at Peter and Jeannette's new summer place on the water just outside the city.  It was small and rustic but Peter already had a beautiful garden and Jeannette was happy to cook and fuss with the new home.  It had one bedroom with another room that was like a kitchen and living area with eating on the terrace in between.  We had Tuna and Lamb Chops with potato salad and  Salmon salad, Shrimp cocktails, and fresh strawberries for dessert. We returned to Amsterdam, tired and content.

I slept late spent most of the day inside.  I stopped over to the Surinamese Restaurant to have coffee and use their internet connection.  Then I did the same at the Daphne Renault Cafe by the river. It was a quiet day.  Jeannette had a Turkish couple over for marriage counseling.  Peter went fishing and David took a walk.
 Jeannette will perform the civil ceremony for the Turkish couple's wedding in September.  She has married quite a few people and enjoys it. She has married women couples, male couples, her neighbors of 20 years, different races, Hindu, Muslims, mixed marriages, everything.  It is her hobby in retirement. Peter and her visit her brother and he comes to the Netherlands also.  A few years ago he married again.  Now in his late 60's with his wife around her early 40's they conceived a baby boy whom is now 3 years old.  The among the wedding guest was Vaclav Havel the first President of the Czech Republic and leader of the Velvet Revolution also an avid Chess Player.  As a member of the World Chess Masters, Jeannette's brother also invited his good friend Gary Kasparov and entertained the guests with a blindfolded Chess Match.  Champagne was thee drink served to all and for a honeymoon they enjoyed a week or so in the Maldives. Lou Reed may be the entertainment at theirs son's birthday party this year.

 David found a box of candy in his bed when he retired.

Spanish Seafood Stew

Museumplein-Van Gogh

Vondel Park

Beatrix Park

Sunshine was forecast for the next three days.  David planned a walk to Vondel Park then return to Martin Luther King Park for the Parada Festival.  He walked and walked.  It was a beautiful day and just before reaching Vondel Park he stopped at Museumplein and had lunch at Small Talk to get replenished. The park was filling up.  He walked around a bit then decided to head back for the second half of the day at the Parada.  He took a "short cut" through Beatrix Park and got lost.  When he came out he was at the Rai Station not far from Peter and Jeannette's but it was almost 4 pm which didn't leave the time needed for the Parada.  He took a tram to Rembrantsplein for some coffee, cake and hash at Smokey's Coffee Shop. After it was a Pint of Guinness at Mulligan's and a visit with Miriam the owner.  It was quiet so he returned to the neighborhood and had a glass of wine at Diva's before showing up in time for delicious leftovers from a Spanish Seafood Stew the night before.

Today David is back at the Surinamese Restaurant to use the internet again.  He can't use Peter's cable network.  This time he tried a spicy but nice BBQ Chicken sandwich for lunch.  He goes to Parada this afternoon and tonight we all go to the Windmill Restaurant favorite of Peter and Jeannette's. Well David made the Parada but just before entering he realized he left his memory card for the camera in the computer so rather than pay to enter with no camera he decided to go Sunday...the last day.  He returned and that evening Peter drove everyone to the Windmill Restaurant.  A very upscale "Fusion" restaurant with very eclectic food. We had Champagne and Wine with a wonderful meal.

Dinner at the Windmill

Sunday Jeannette prepared a Brunch of Imported Meats and Cheeses with a Mushroom and Tomato Omelet . Champagne and fresh Bread accompanied the meal.  David left after for the Parada and finally got in to take a few pictures and walk around.  He didn't stay as all the shows are in Dutch. Would have been fun to share with someone.

Back in Belgrade

I thought my glasses were dirty.

BELGRADE...finally

Waking at 4:30 am is not how I usually start my day.  There appeared to be a full moon out.  Romania being the birthplace of Count Dracula, "Devil" in Romanian, could be an ominous sign?  Taxi was waiting and I noted a few people getting out of taxis at 5am that were still having a party.  As we drove along I counted three police check points for drunk driving.  No vehicle except Taxis were let through and there were cars being impounded and people being arrested at every check point.  This is 5 am! Yes it was a Friday but in Phoenix I think the check points would be down at 5 am...maybe because here I don't think there is a closing time.  People can openly drink on the streets also.  We reached the train station and  it wasn't long after when the train arrived.  I had an assigned seat in an 8 seat compartment.  So did 8 members of the Partridge family.

 We managed with Mom and Dad opposite with a daughter and both boys, the oldest and youngest of the lot. I sat with the other 3 daughters.  The whole family were handsome, relaxed, conversed and laughed a lot.  They shared food with each other and me. They were respectful of each other and me. It was truly a pleasant experience.  They were like my neighbors back in the fifties that I used to play with and stay over at their house. You liked them so much you felt for them. You knew someday they would suffer a hardship, the father would pass away, the mother would get sick or some accident would cripple one of the children.  You worried for them because they were such nice people you felt for them. They got off at a village just after we crossed the border and I was feeling lonely in the compartment by myself.

Sharing Popcorn with a new Friend

The train entered Belgrade along the Danube.  The station was close to the center but I wasn't familiar with this area so walked to my Hostel with a stop at McDonald's McCafe for a Latte and Breakfast.  This McDonald's not only has the Free Wi-Fi access but four state of the art computers to use free of charge, a wide screen TV , a separate downstairs dining room, the outdoor terrace , as well as a comfortable lounge are like Starbucks. All Air Conditioned.

Dusan is last on the right with his girlfriend.

I was welcomed at the Hostel Montmarte by a gentlemen who inquired if I was David Taylor. That was nice since I was 3 hours early for check in.  His name is Dusan.  He speaks English, French and Italian and worked for a French tour company in Vietnam for 6 months taking people on river tours to villages and tours of Saigon. He gave me a brief tour then after showing me a lovely room, requested I join him for a welcome gift?  Nice touch.  The gift was a welcome national drink Rakia that was chilled in the freezer.  He poured us each a shot and offered a toast for a pleasant stay.  Then he introduced me to his knockout sister, Jelena, after I said I was from Phoenix.  She was a fan of the Suns, and an international women's basketball gold medal winner. Basketball star Jelena Milekic Serbia Women's team played the US.  Didn't get all the details but she looked very athletic as well as attractive. The Hostel is done in a lot of Red .  The entrance door is Red, red trip around the halls.  Red Heart bath mat and red hearts on white for the shower curtain.  Rainbow colored bed cover, Pink shear curtains .  Wide screen wall mounted Cable TV. Posters of Paris with Scenes of the Montmarte area.  Nice wooden antique chairs with red velvet cushions...very feminine or gay? Centrally located and air conditioned. It is very much like the 3 star hotel I just left but better I think.  It is about $5 more than the one in Timisoara at $45 a night.  I wanted to be comfortable my last days in the Balkans. I know this neighborhood and might go to the Bohemian section again and maybe the Casino down by the Danube...an area I missed last time.

View from McDonald's

The night desk clerk greeted me "Good Morning Sir" and presented me with my clean laundry.  Never mind that it was just thrown in a bag when it came out of the dryer in the night.  It was clean and wrinkled. Sunday morning in Belgrade is quiet and not much was open.  I wanted something more than the cereal I had for breakfast so went to McDonald's but they were closed!  I forgot to reset my clock to Serbian time zone.  I found a Cafe open but like most, they only serve beverages.  You can't even get a bag of chips with your beer or Croissant with your coffee.  I returned to McDonald's after my coffee and had an Egg McMuffin. Dusan was at the desk when I returned to the Hostel and explained how to get to the Casino and where the good restaurants in the neighborhood were located.

Background Music was Everly Bros and Sam Cook

I meandered around the main Rodeo Drive to the Park on the end.  Visit an Art Plaza in the park but decided to forgo the Bohemian Section and restaurants until tomorrow.  I found an Art museum..The Zepter and it was nice.  The building was art deco style and the museum was laid out on three floors.  I decided to have lunch on the strip and ordered the Chef's Surprise Pizza...It was a Surprise!  It was a Pie. about 5 inch tall and a good 12" around.  I ate half and took the rest back for dinner and breakfast.

Waiting under the Clock

The Montmarte is the perfect location and as a result, I believe will be very successful and expand into more along the same lines. I step out the door and there is Republic Square...a central meeting point like the clock at Grand Central Station in NYC.  People meet under the clock or the Monument in Republic Square.  You can sit there and watch the drama unfold. Will they show or no.  People on the cell ...Where are you. During the short time I was there , one man was stood up.  Four women met women and left arm and arm. One woman met a man.  Very few men wait for anyone.  It is 90% women waiting.  In the US, it's the men that are waiting.  Women are afraid they will be mistaken for prostitutes sitting around alone. .Another thing is I have only seen butter served once, I can not get any newspaper or magazine in English in the capital of Serbia, more than one napkin is seldom , sometimes more than 3 sheets of toilet paper is hard to get, toilet paper has been mostly one brand no matter where, service is usually slow if at all, and I asked for lots of ice today and got two ice cubes , never to see the waiter in almost an hour. I guess they think that we think we are special because were Americans or something.  They treat all customers like that?

It will be nice to be back in Amsterdam tomorrow for lunch.  Milko, a friend in Germany invited me to his country home about 4 hours out of Amsterdam.  I think a day or two in the country would be nice.

My last night in Belgrade I was still eating my Chef's Surprise Pizza leftover in the Hostel refrigerator.  I wanted to eat out at the restaurants Dasan had recommended and thought maybe I would have an appetizer.  I walked the exclusive part of the Old City with chic cafes and restaurants on every corner.  Douma, Balzac, Dorian Gray, The Witch Bar, The Nude, The Little Box, and ended up at Momma's Biscuit House for a Gin and Tonic.  The Bulgarian Restaurant was really unique but I wasn't hungry and no one was there this early. I left my camera at the Hostel.  I wasn't expecting this. I felt like I was walking NYC Village.  Wabi Sabi a Concept in Living store grabbed my attention.  Maybe if I was rich?  Lots of BMW's Jaguars,Rovers, Mercedes, this was an upscale area...a lot of Gypsy begger children...they know where the money is. I came back through the Bohemian Section , had the last of my Pizza and retired early. The Hostel had called the taxi for 5:30 and woke me at 5am.  I made the hour ride to the airport in about 17 minutes at just under 90mph and was checked in immediatly.  Nothing to eat except day old rich pastrys  and premade sandwiches. They call Thailand the land of Smiles...I call the Balkans the land of Grimaces.  Turkey was the only place where I thought the general populace was friendly and smiling...not for long  if the president keeps up his "reforms". Hello Amsterdam!